Will do! I'll be a little nervous in case I do something you disapprove of but I'll send them!No problem, it's been an interesting geometric exercise. I wanted to make (6) simpler, but I don't think it's possible.
Show us some pictures of the final result, even if you end up doing (4.5). And let us know if you want to fix some of the problems visible in your pictures of upstream on the 2" drain. By now you'll be quite proficient so it shouldn't be too hard to do (may require a few more pictures for planning guidance).
Thank you Jeff. I appreciate you checking in and giving your input. I'm glad to have a number of options to choose from!So confused As wayne mentioned the 1/4 bend replacement wouldnt quite make code I only threw that out as a workable solution I doubt it will cause problem and prefer a legal long sweep but in any case its 100 times better than what you have with the heel outlet. I hadent read his other solutions very well but Im sure he got something good . trying to save you work and have a good working system.
Two quick questions:5) Assuming you don't want to do that, then once the 2" line is jogged out of the way, the simplest option to me is to replace the low heel 90 with a 3" san-tee on its back (where the top will now be just a dry vent) (or use a combo if there's room, but there may not be), then lower the 3x4 reducing closet bend to be at the same elevation as that san-tee (allowing for 2% slope), point its outlet to be at a 45 degree angle to the lower horizontal now 3" only drain, and connect it into the vent take-off san-tee on its back with a 45.
Yes! I missed that this morning when I was going back over everything to make sure I had all of the fittings. You're not too wordy - I'm just like a middle schooler trying to read a college dissertation. LOL!I was apparently too wordy : -) Let me draw your attention to the passing comment at the end of post 80, where I said "Also, in 5, where I mentioned a 45, that could be a wye with the straight inlet as cleanout, again if you provide enough access space in front of the cleanout."
I think I could probably run it on either side. That would just give me less room if I needed to do anything to that wall at some point. There's also small ditch along there that runs to the sump pump well. That being said, if it made a big difference in the overall process, it could certainly be done.Can you run the 2 inch next to the wall, or is there not enough room?
You have that other drain joining downstream of the toilets. So I was wondering if coming in next to the wall would make things easier. You could possibly insert the wye downstream of that.I think I could probably run it on either side. That would just give me less room if I needed to do anything to that wall at some point. There's also small ditch along there that runs to the sump pump well. That being said, if it made a big difference in the overall process, it could certainly be done.
That's surely Phase II, the OP needs to finish the original project first. : - )I just looked back. Post #18 has a trap with no vent. Will you deal with that?
I don't think the other drain downstream will cause a problem coming in away from the wall. As for the trap with no vent, Wayne is right that after I get the toilets taken care of and the 2 inch pipe routed around, I'll look at what's up stream from there. It's been that way since I bought the house in 2003 so I guess a few more weeks won't hurt. Everything upstream of the toilets had already been switched from cast iron to PVC before 2003.You have that other drain joining downstream of the toilets. So I was wondering if coming in next to the wall would make things easier. You could possibly insert the wye downstream of that.
I have not been following the current plan... if it works coming in away from the wall, great.
I just looked back. Post #18 has a trap with no vent. Will you deal with that?
The drain goes through a hole through my foundation block so I can't get any more fall. Even with a street san-tee I don't think I have the room to fit a long sweep on the bottom.upon further looks like if you remove that double fixture fitting and use a single street santee it might just work with a long sweep on the bottom could be your drain has extra fall you might can drop it a 1/2 inch.
Thank you Wayne! That's actually a huge relief to hear. I was afraid it would be considered a hack. Thanks for the part numbers!PVC slip couplings are very hard to use, Fernco 3005-33 or Mission P-300 is the way to the go for 3" PVC to 3" PVC. You'll need 2 if both ends are fixed.
This is awkward, but...
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