Ask first cut once, Update with Drain Question

[Casman]

Welp, after a rough few weeks things are coming together. I ran the water lines to my bath remodel in copper. I was going to try PEX, but my mind said PEX is for solder chickens. The fittings didn’t fit the pipe or vice versa. So I tried to make it work. I ended up tearing it out and going with PEX. My girls were getting mad as I kept turning the water off, so I started the PEX with stubs then shut offs. Things were going great. Then suddenly the PEX line blew off, hit me in the head and a mini flood ensued. I examined the Sharkbite fitting and the white collar tube was missing and the teeth looked damaged. New out the bag and I didn’t damage it. Anyways after that is was a quick road to completion.

Now before I cut the shower pan, I need to make sure I can get the shower drain in without issue. The “Drill Bit” sticking down is approx center of the pan trap hole. See pics. I think it will work but I’m generally wrong and it’s been 20 years since I’ve done a bath remodel. I picked up a 3/2 wye to make the connection. I’d draw it but my 2nd grade art grade was an F and it hasn’t improved. TIA for any help

 

[Casman]

Here’s a photo of where I’m at. Am I getting close. Any advice on what not to do?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

The wye needs to be on the horizontal. Are you venting with the 3"? Or are you adding a vent for the p-trap.

 

[Casman]

This is for the shower drain. The vent is further back on the 3 inch.

I’m going to cut the 3 inch add the wye then connect the trap. It’s the angles and positioning I usually mess up.

 

[wwhitney]

If you are relying on the 3" to horizontally wet vent the shower (what is the upstream configuration?), then your wye has to be horizontal. So if the 3" line is directly below the shower drain location, that's going to need to change.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Casman]

Upstream is a wall mount toilet with a 2 inch vent. The 3 inch drain is not directly underneath but close. So this wye horizontally means what it suggests? When I come off the trap can I 45 into the wye? I guess if I knew how it should look with the fittings I can make sure I’ve got it right. This line starts with the toilet, 2 vent up and out which I already had help with, and wet venting the shower which is with 2 feet of the upstream vent then to the stack. Thanks for the help

 

[wwhitney]

Yes, to wet vent the shower, you want the shower trap outlet just a little bit above the 3" drain (center line to center line), just enough for the fall that you need to make it to the 3" line at 1/4" per foot slope. Then the 3x3x2 wye is horizontal, i.e. the 2" inlet is also sloped at 1/4" per foot. If it happened to line up right, you could go directly from the trap outlet to the wye inlet with just a short piece of pipe, but usually you'll need some bends in between (the fewer the somewhat better, as always).

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Casman]

Thanks Wayne. Here’s what I came up with so far. I’m terrible with shapes in general. I was that kid trying to fit the square peg in a round hole. I do have to trim down the shower pan so I have some wiggle room. But usually I’d wiggle the wrong way and by time I’m done the shower pan would look more like a foot bath. I can also rerun the 3 inch drain as well. It’s a small area so if I’d be better to rerun that’s OK.
Is this the general idea, with the wye on “the horizontal”? Horizontal can have some upward angle right?

 

[Casman]

Or could I run it like this?

 

[wwhitney]

What's the galvanized on the left side of your last picture?

Yes, horizontal can have some slope to it. But the trap outlet will be close to 2% slope if the trap inlet is plumb, which you want. So if you just have a short pipe segment between the wye and trap outlet, the wye inlet will need to be at 2% slope.

Either of the configurations you show would be fine, if the last is just as easy as the earlier ones, it looks nicer.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Casman]

Thanks Wayne!! The galvanized was what I’d planned originally to use but it’s a 1.5 inlet, no hubs just fittings.
I believe I got this. It’s a tight spot for sure. House is 1890’s and from what I see this used to be the main entrance. They dug it out, added cinder blocks then broke through the brick basement to create this bathroom. It was 5.5 feet x 5.5 feet. I enlarged it just a bit by stealing 17 inches from the dining room, which overall looks natural as the adjacent wall has a brick chimney on the interior in what I call a chase, so it balances.
I cut the Wedi pan, which I’d planned to do regardless, and offset just a little bit to make the drain install much easier. It was in fact too close to the 3”, almost centered on top. Rather than redo the 3 inch drain line it just worked better to offset.
The farmers pretty much butchered the joists down to nothing. Load bearing studs just chopped out in places 2 in a row. The house appears to have not suffered as a result, but I’m fixing a lot of these mistakes as I go. The floor was out of level 1.5 inches. I replaced all the floor joists, subfloor and gutted the entire room. 9 foot ceilings. Pan is now 33” x 57”. Thanks again for all your help as it’s been a long time since I knew this stuff.