Another water heater PEX install question

Users who are viewing this thread

Finch85

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Roanoke, Virginia
Hello

Just purchased a new electric water heater to replace my 15 year old State heater. The bottom element is burnt out and impossible to remove. I decided to go ahead and replace the entire unit to avoid any surprises in the future. Plus the wife isn't digging one working element.

Anyway, my current water heater is plumbed directly with PEX. Today I bought stainless steel flex hoses but after doing a bit more research, I'm questioning if i want to plumb it with these. I've read a few bad things on this forum. So, down to my question. I plan on buying the copper corrugated flex pipes now and these will connect between the heater and to my existing PEX. Am I missing anything here or any concerns that need to be addressed? I called Ruud and they actually said i could plumb directly to the heater with PEX but I still feel better using the flex lines. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything here. I'll be connecting the 12 inch copper flex lines to my PEX and that's it.

The pics are the stainless lines I bought and the screenshot is the copper flex I plan on ordering and ultimately using.

Thanks
Donnie

20180730_163511.jpg
Screenshot_20180730-161721_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Finch85

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Roanoke, Virginia
Here is another possibility: http://falconstainless.com/product-category/water-connectors/pex-barb/

Where will the valve on the intake line be? Where will the thermal expansion tank be?

I'm familiar with falcon as that is what I used with my water softener but I thought copper would be superior with the water heater. I currently don't have a thermal expansion tank and wasn't planning on using one. I currently have a cut off valve plumbed in the PEX on the water heater side of the softener. Thanks.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,880
Reaction score
4,433
Points
113
Location
IL
I'm familiar with falcon as that is what I used with my water softener but I thought copper would be superior with the water heater. I currently don't have a thermal expansion tank and wasn't planning on using one. I currently have a cut off valve plumbed in the pex on the water heater side of the softener.
If city water, expect you will need a thermal expansion tank sooner or later. If you have a well, the pressure tank can absorb thermal expansion.

The Falcon connectors are full diameter. Not all stainless is the same. In particular, braided stainless is what you want to avoid I think. Those are rubber with a woven sleeve. I am not a pro.

Now that I've done a little more reading, what valve are you talking about on the intake line?
That's the one.

Are you using stainless steel clamps on your pex, or what?
 

Finch85

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Roanoke, Virginia
If city water, expect you will need a thermal expansion tank sooner or later. If you have a well, the pressure tank can absorb thermal expansion.

The Falcon connectors are full diameter. Not all stainless is the same. In particular, braided stainless is what you want to avoid I think. Those are rubber with a woven sleeve. I am not a pro.


That's the one.

Are you using stainless steel clamps on your pex, or what?

Yes, I have a well with pressure tank. Thank goodness because I've ever heard of a thermal expansion tank.

I should still be good using copper or the falcon, right? I can get the copper quicker because falcon ships from the west coast I believe and I'm in VA.

I have copper crimps for the pex. I normally buy the pex crimps from lowes but these came from a plumbing supply and are copper. I'm used to the black clamps but I guess these copper ones will work just as well. Not sure if there is a difference in usage between copper or stainless?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,880
Reaction score
4,433
Points
113
Location
IL
I should still be good using copper or the falcon, right?
Yes.

Try this search into the search box for the store you plan to shop at: water heater pex

brasscraft-water-heater-venting-parts-wb07-18-64_1000.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
As said, I'd avoid the ones with the braided covering and use the solid flex (corrugated) SS or copper, your choice. You also want a full-port shutoff valve to minimize any restrictions, and generally, that means a ball valve. Personally, when using pex, I prefer to use an expansion system verses crimp since it has less flow restriction.
 

Finch85

Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Roanoke, Virginia
So I just unboxed my new water heater in preparation for tomorrows install and discovered it is dented at the top. Is this a big deal and worthy of trying to get an exchange? I know they'll probably suspect it being my fault but I'd prefer one in the shape I paid for it. Just roll with it?
 

Attachments

  • 20180805_214017.jpg
    20180805_214017.jpg
    63 KB · Views: 247
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks