Another Pitless Adapter Question

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Mortal798

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It's done! I must be really lucky, it was only 65' down the hole. I made a t-handle tool to loosen the screw an it worked on the first try. Pulled out 3 - 20' sections and the pump. Bought new pump from Grainger for $400.

The original installer did not heat shrink the cables to the pump, only electrical tape. The wires were all full of water. I used heat shrink, attached the wires to the pipe (they weren't before), food safe lube on the o-ring, a torque arrestor (which it didn't have before), and now I have water pressure!

I really appreciate all of the help and advice - it really helped me get the job done today. Thank you. pump_1.jpg
 

Mortal798

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One last question: do I need to pour bleach or some other chemical into my well? I keep seeing other posts about pouring something down there, but what's the real answer?
 

Ballvalve

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look at the stickies at the top of this forum. You need to recirculate the soultion through the well cap.

I have started using 2 hole ABS caps for jet pumps with submersibles so I have a big port for venting and or chlorinating and recirculating.
 

Daniel Earl Keith

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Better late than never so they say. So for future reference for others inquiring about this adapter...

It's most likely a Weises. Made by Weises Inc. of RisingSun, Ohio. Don't think they are made anymore... and more's the pity because it is a great pitless adapter. The pics below are of my Weises.

There's also a possibility it's a Merrill:

http://www.merrillmfg.com/product/02-PitlessUnits/MCK-Kit/features.php

The Weises pitless adapter is made of bronze and inside the top is a 3/4" threaded bolt with the top formed into a key (think it's stainless as it's non magnetic) with a slotted end. To turn it, you need to take a black iron or galv. Iron water pipe and pound one end to flatten it enough so it will fit snugly over that key. I forget what I used.. 1/2" pipe most likely but it might have been 3/8. Will check later and edit this. So you slightly flatten one end of an iron pipe, add a t-fitting and two small pipes at the top to make a handle, and insert your new tool thru the tee, into the pipe down to the pitless. Then you unscrew the key. When you do, it lets the tension off the "foot" and the rubber gasket at the front of the pitless comes free and you can then pull everything up.

Once the pitless is loose, pull out your tool and stick a rag or something in the end so if you loosened the key too much, it won't fall out. I neglected to do this once and the key was a royal pain to find again since it's non-metallic and dragging with a magnet was useless. Luckily my GF found it and saved the day : )

Oh... make sure to make a mark on the casing where the tee at the top is set so you can line up the pitless the same way when you reinstall it.

I'd love to have another Wieses pitless, shame they are so rare now, but I might check out the Merrill.

MVC-538F.JPGMVC-537F.JPGMVC-540F.JPGMVC-539F.JPG
 
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Craigpump

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My guess is that the original installer used this pitless to ensure that only he gets the repeat service work
 

rickd438

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This post really helped me today, so I thought I would contribute something that may help the next guy pulling out his or her pump. The tool that you need to make takes a little more then smashing a 1/2" pipe. once you bang your 1/2" pipe on concrete you need to grind down the sides of the pipe that flared out from the flatting of the pipe. Mine would not even go into the well pipe to get to the pitless. I ground off both sides of the pipe completely. After doing that I tried to turn the screw in the pitless without any luck. I took my tool and spread open the ends that I smashed together and after the third try my tool worked like a charm. The tool is real easy to make but it does take a little more work then what the previous posts suggested. If this helps just one person then my post was worth the time.
 

Angrybullmoose

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A HUGE thank you to all involved in this thread. I have to replace my pump during one of the coldest weeks of this winter and I ran into the same adapter. While searching the internet at the start, it all looked pretty straight forward until I found this adapter. I couldn't find any information and almost started trying to dig through three feet of frozen ground thinking the adapter must be bolted to the well housing... then I found this thread. Again, thanks to all of you for your tireless research. I tend to agree with craigpump when he said 'My guess is that the original installer used this pitless to ensure that only he gets the repeat service work'.
Hopefully I can get some pictures of my experience with this as I start the attack tomorrow and post more helpful tips to this thread.
 

vmx12

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I also want to thank everyone in this thread. I never would have been able to fix my pump without knowing to smash down some 1/2" black pipe. my big mistake was hoping since I pulled out a 4" pump I would be able to put the same size back in. No such luck. Got it stuck the first time and was only able to pull it out with the help of two other guys. Didn't want to chance it a second time and ordered a three inch. IF YOU HAVE A 4" INCH WELL PIPE PAY THE EXTRA MONEY FOR THE 3 INCH PUMP, TRUST ME. Thanks again everyone
 

Tom Quiggly

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One thing I saw with this type adapter ,Merrill MCK, is that you need to turn the screw clockwise to loosen it? Can someone verify this is correct? It makes sense that this actually presses the cam out but I would hate to turn it the wrong way and bust the casing since it is only PVC.
 

Reach4

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One thing I saw with this type adapter ,Merrill MCK, is that you need to turn the screw clockwise to loosen it? Can someone verify this is correct?
Where did you read that?

I have the SMCK. I always presumed that CCW would loosen, but I don't know. I had the well people install that.

EDIT: OK, counter-clockwise to loosen, for sure.

IMG_4.png
 
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