American Standard Americast tub and drain installation question

[argo]

First off - Thank You for sharing your knowledge and experience; your site is invaluable to me.
1. I am in the process of replacing a 20-year-old bath tub with American Standard' Americast bath tub. The new tub has a rigid 1/4" foam through out its bottom. Will it be safe to install the drain gasket in the following fashion: (from bottom up) >> plastic drain > rubber gasket > tub's rigid foam > plumber's putty under screw-in pop-up drain. Is it better to use a thin rubber gasket or plumber’s putty? Also, should I silicone all of the joints on the drain assembly - just in case.
2. Because of the extra thickness that the rigid insulation adds the overflow gasket doesn't fit into tub's overflow opening unless I remove the gasket's lip facing the inside of the tub. Could I simply silicone the inside of the trim piece instead and secure it to the overflow drain pipe.
Thank you. Arthur

 

[hj]

It has been a while since I installed an Americast tub, so I do not remember the foam being around the opening. Plumber's putty under the flange is adequate. Throw the tube of silicone away and do NOT use it on the connections. I also cannot visualize your problem with the overflow, but if you have thrown the tube of silicone away you won't be able to use it there either. How about a photo showing your problems?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

When I buy a waste and overflow at the wholesale supply house, the upper overflow screw is long enough.
A few months ago, we tried to install a Big Box tub drain, and lo and behold, the screw was too short for the think gasket.
I guess the bean couinters have figured out a way to save a fraction of a penny.
We sold them a new tub drain and had them return the non-usable kit to big box.

Tub shoe installation
Putty the flange and thread it in.
The rubber gasket goes below the tub, and when the drain wth flange is threaded down into the shoe, it clamps it up tight.
No Silicone, no tape, just nice clean threads that allow a tight clamp between the flange and the shoe, sandwiching the tub and rubber washer.

 

[Rich B]

I installed an Americast tub a while ago.....Had good access underneath it as the ceiling was open. I had some trouble sealing a slight leak on the underside of the tub at the drain flange. The surface area there was slightly rough on the bottom of the tub and causing a very slight leak. I used Blue Block sealant on the tub and the gasket at the flange. Let it dry well and no more leak. Tested it well before I sheetrocked the ceiling under it.

 

[argo]

Thank you guys for your replies. HJ here are the pics that you asked for.
Here's what I meant by the gasket not fitting the the overflow opening of the bath tub because of the extra 1/4" thinkness of the insulation:
http://www.box.com/s/9y75c162e57e4g2j9090
Should I caulk the joints of the drain assembly:
http://www.box.com/s/1otyzgi14idcthduqlju
Tub's drain and foam thinkness and tub's bottom:
http://www.box.com/s/zxayma75kyet9koe4ymj
http://www.box.com/s/bclepdrupfvk0yqyhczi

Thanks again. Arthur

 

[Rich B]

I used a brass drain/overflow set........No problem fitting it to the tub. The leak issue was at the drain. As I mentioned the surface on the underside of the tub at the drain hole area was a bit rough. The rubber gasket would not seal. The sealant that I used was one that dries pretty firm and stays put. It is a thread sealer and very common....Caulking is not something I would use on a rubber gasket....If you have a fitup problem adding some sort of caulking or silicone to it is not a good way to fix it...Get something that fits better and ditch the caulking idea....