Here this is right off there site...I had someone fix a toilet drain pipe in my bathroom and he used Oatey All-Purpose Cement to glue ABS to PVC instead of the Oatey Transition glue. Does this need to be ripped out and redone with the Transition glue?
You can't get a PVC to abs banded clamp like that in my town. I usually glue the PVC adapter to the PVC to bring it the same size as absA properly made plastic pipe connection shouldn't release by heating. The cement is actually a solvent with dissolved extra plastic in it...the solvent melts the surface of the pipe and fitting, and then, once the solvent evaporates, they are literally one piece, welded together. While you can use a transition cement, what may be a safer solution is the more costly banded coupling. Some have a single clamp at each end, which also works, depending on the situation.View attachment 41634
I am not a plumber, and I have no similar experience.However, This new bend + pipe + flange is connected to an ABS system. That's where I'm concerned now. I want to know whether I should just leave it as is or if it would be worth it to somehow remove the new PVC pieces from the old ABS.
I am not a plumber, and I have no similar experience.
I think I would consider an experiment. Duplicate the joint that you are worried about, and see what it takes to fail. Maybe under-glue for a worse-case test.
When I had a PVC+steel joint in a lavatory drain path, I wrapped it with self-fusing silicone tape topped off with another shrinking tape. I can keep a watch on that joint. If you have easy-enough access, you could consider such an action as a redundant seal.
Any short-term experiment you perform may not show up any long-term results. Its really hard to prevent leaks from the outside...much easier from the inside. Since you have access, why worry about it and just do it right.
I would definitely test that before implementing. I was recently disappointed in regular JB Weld being able to adhere to galvanized steel. I then tried Lictite Clear Silicone waterproof sealant (aquarium safe). As it turned out, it did not matter, because there was another leak in a downstream galvanized drainpipe that was not at a fitting, and it was not in a horizontal piece. I was a bit shocked to find that. It turns out that the fissure was just above a partial block. So that explains it.I'm wondering if I surround the lip with JB Plastic weld and put a metal clamp over the connection it might eliminate any chance of separation in the future.
Can you not find ABS bits, then you don't need to transition! As I said earlier, a code compliant way to transition is to use a banded coupler if you must keep the ABS.
The solvent used for ABS and PVC is nearly the same, but the two don't really mix well, so while it may have melted the surface of each, they may not be well bonded. TO sleep better, just redo it with either all one plastic, or use an approved transition method. It might work just fine, but why take the risk? The cost to redo it isn't great. If you had lots of money already sunk in, it might be worth it to try, but not while you still have fairly easy access and it's not going to break the bank.
It might help if you could wait for the guy who is booked up for a week or so.
This is awkward, but...
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