Air Admittance Valve(inspection problem)

[Travis Hardy]

I have two AAV(Air Admittance Valve) that when the inspector for buying my property noted that "
The drain pipe at the sink had an "S" trap. Water filling the downstream vertical portion of the "S"
trap will cause syphoning and loss of trap seals. Trap seals must be maintained to prevent sewer
gases from entering the dwelling."


Here are picture of the "violations"

I am not familiar with AAVs and I am not sure what is wrong with the venting. If someone could lead in the direction to fix the "violation" would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!
Travis

 

[Travis Hardy]

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

Yeah, those are both wrong.

The basic pattern should be (going downstream):

Horizontal p-trap outlet - tee with side branch facing up - 90 to turn down to drain. Then the side branch of the tee has a riser and the AAV.

Under the sink you could use this: https://rectorseal.com/product/magic-trap/ Your black tailpiece and the drain going down through the cabinet floor are close to each other in plan, so you want the initial bend of the U to go to the left.

The existing configuration in the first photo (a bathtub?) is partially obscured, but the pattern you want is the same, you'd just need to use solvent weld fittings rather than tubular fittings.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

Garbage Job hate to say can be repaired easily by a plumber

 

[Travis Hardy]

Thank you Wayne! I believe I follow what needs to be done.

 

[Jeff H Young]

luckily easy fix but sure was a bad way to do it the first time

 

[Travis Hardy]

How does this look? The pipe going up goes to the AAV

 

[Reach4]

Probably close enough. Trap arm length dimension is supposed to be at least 3 inches.

 

[Travis Hardy]

Attempt 2. Hadnt glued it yet so changing it was easy. The vent pipe is about 4-5in away

 

[Reach4]

Good deal. Out of curiosity, what dimension did you read for that trap arm before?

AAV needs to be changeable. It does not have to go so high.

I would opt for a trap adapter at the sanitary tee.

A slip joint p-trap gives you more adjustablity and requires less-precise measurement. When you get to cutting for gluing, you will need longer pieces because the pipes go in farther when you add the primer and glue.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Put many if not hundreds of glue ptraps yea its a bit slower but not that big a deal not worth going to the store for it. you got the parts Id glue it up, I like aav high so it has less chance of filling with water and leaking when stoppage occurs , so that should have a way to remove and inspect , to me to put it low seems wrong I guess thats how most do them way down low.

 

[Reach4]

Put many if not hundreds of glue ptraps yea its a bit slower but not that big a deal not worth going to the store for it.

Experience makes working with glued traps quick and predictable. Slip joint traps give the less-experienced easy do-overs and adjustment.

 

[Travis Hardy]

The previous picture with the short trap arm distance was like 2 3/4. So, really close to the 3in. However if I am going to redo it, I would rather do it the right way rather than the "will probably be fine way".

The AAV is accessible, just out of view, and threads in so it is replaceable.

Thanks again for all the help!!

 

[Reach4]

Being a new install, you have a chance to add a cleanout while you are at it.

 

[Travis Hardy]

Reach4,

I have installed a cleanout on the tub trap. Would you recommend something different than what is pictured here? Again, this is not glued yet so changes are easy.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Is your intention to meet code or just improve upon what you have? Because your cleanout wouldnt meet my code here ( but better than none) and AAV might need acsessable ( which has requirements)

 

[Jeff H Young]

BTW the minimum distance between a trap and inner edge of vent must not be under 2 pipe diameters many people think that means your piece thats glued must be minimum 2 diameters thats wrong , it need not be that long. When we use cast iron we dont even need a piece bettween santee and trap.
So if its 3 inches from inside edge of vent to the trap its good. When some dumb inspector want to get technical you read up when they start telling you to change stuff. Also Travis you doing good cleaning up a few things on this job!

 

[Travis Hardy]

This was just a home buyers inspector and he didn't hit me for any of the work I had done, just some work that the previous owner either had done or most likely did themselves, plumbing being one of them. What would need installed for the trap/cleanout to be "code'? A threaded fully removable trap such as the sink has? Even though its not a "code" inspection, the codes are in place for a reason and I feel that generally doing work to "code" is the better way of doing things. Again I thank you for your help and so do the next owners

 

[Reach4]

I have installed a cleanout on the tub trap. Would you recommend something different than what is pictured here?

Yes. That cleanout at the bottom of the p-trap is useless, according to what I have read. Instead something like a combo or wye where the waste goes through the bottom of the cabinet would give easy rodding access. If wye, you could have a 45 under the santee. I am not a plumber. Others may have better ideas.

If you used a trap adapter, you could pull the trap off for cleaning, and put it back in place.

I don't know the code rule for cleanouts, but the most likely place for a clog is where the vertical turns horizontal below the floor. If you could insert a medium Brasscraft drain bladder in there, that would make for easy cleaning IMO.