Advice removing cap for main septic cleanout

rmcderm313

rmcderm313

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Hi All,

I am trying to resolve a partial blockage in my main outlet to my septic tank. The lowest point drain is my washing machine drain right next to the main outlet. It occasionally backs up when there are multiple draining activities along with the washer draining.
In any event, I want to attempt snaking the main drainage pipe. I've attached a photo of the pipe. I haven't tried too hard yet, but it seems pretty stuck.
I'm looking for any advice, guidance, information or warnings about removing this. The cleanout plug appears to be from Lee USA. It's a model 25-620 and it's 3 1/2". I can't find that particular model in any Google search, but do find reference for a 25-628 threaded plug (although they all seem to be out of stock).
Here are a few of my questions:
- Is this plug brass? I think my pipes are cast iron. Does that make sense to have a brass plug?
- Can I use a MAP gas torch to heat the plug in an attempt to remove? Is there any damage of damaging the pipes if I do?
- My plug has a hex fitting (see picture). I think that is pretty unusual as most I see are just a square. I have a 35mm socket that will fit. Can I use an impact driver to remove this?
- It looks as though some kind of sealant has been used. It looks kind of greenish. Is this just pipe dope?

I think those are my big questions, but as I mentioned any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
 

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There is a green pipe dope. I'd try a impact. Would heat the fitting not the plug. If that doesn't work could drill a hole in plug use a jig saw cut a big hole in it then cave threads in With a hammer and chisel. Capping chisel works best.
 
Regarding the impact wrench, I don't know. Usually people recommend a destructive method of taking the middle out with a hole saw, or using a drill to remove a lot of material, and then using a chisel and a saw.

rmcderm313 said:
- Is this plug brass? I think my pipes are cast iron. Does that make sense to have a brass plug?
Click to expand...
Probably. Confirm that it is not steel by using a magnet.

I would expect the thread to be the same as other brands.

If I get mine off, I plan to replace with plastic.

They also make a lead, softer than brass, plug that can conform to bad threads.
 
Fitter30 said:
There is a green pipe dope. I'd try a impact. Would heat the fitting not the plug. If that doesn't work could drill a hole in plug use a jig saw cut a big hole in it then cave threads in With a hammer and chisel. Capping chisel works best.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response! Very helpful. I'm prepared to use the destructive method if required. If I need to do that is a standard 3.5" brass plug what I should have ready? Any thoughts on these rubber expanding plugs in case the threads are damaged? 3.5-Inch Flush Mechanical Cleanout Repair Plug. I've actually ordered both of those options to have on hand just in case.

Again, many thanks for the response.
Rob
 
Reach4 said:
Regarding the impact wrench, I don't know. Usually people recommend a destructive method of taking the middle out with a hole saw, or using a drill to remove a lot of material, and then using a chisel and a saw.


Probably. Confirm that it is not steel by using a magnet.

I would expect the thread to be the same as other brands.

If I get mine off, I plan to replace with plastic.

They also make a lead, softer than brass, plug that can conform to bad threads.
Click to expand...

I'll give heat and the impact a shot and see if it moves. I am prepared to use the destructive method if necessary. Great advice on the magnet, it is not steel so likely brass.
Can you just use a plastic (like PVC) plug in cast iron? I've ordered a replacement standard brass plug as well as this rubber one in case the threads are boogered 3.5-Inch Flush Mechanical Cleanout Repair Plug.

I really appreciate the response, it was very helpful!
Rob
 
rmcderm313 said:
I'll give heat and the impact a shot and see if it moves. I am prepared to use the destructive method if necessary. Great advice on the magnet, it is not steel so likely brass.
Can you just use a plastic (like PVC) plug in cast iron? I've ordered a replacement standard brass plug as well as this rubber one in case the threads are boogered 3.5-Inch Flush Mechanical Cleanout Repair Plug.
Click to expand...
Pvc is ok if it's not in direct sun.
 
Quick update, I was able to get the plug out without destroying it. I used a 35mm socket on a Harbor Freight impact wrench. It was NOT easy. I used a lot of heat from a MAP gas torch. I'm not sure if the impact was what loosened it, but I was finally able to see progress using a breaker bar with a pipe on the end. Once it came out, the threads were in pretty good shape. Certainly nothing that some pipe dope won't seal up. I did use a new plug as I had it on hand. As an FYI, I also had a rubber plug on hand. I would have used that, but it wasn't sealing at all. The rubber seal that expands to fill the pipe is further back from the threads. My pipe has too many imperfections (scale build-up etc.) and it would not seal tightly. I would guess a brand new or very clean pipe would work, but that's not the case for me.
I used a drain cleaner (Harbor Freight again) and though it took a really long time to get the whole pipe cleaned out, it worked really well. Some of the time was my inexperience and the snake kept getting twisted up because I wasn't taking my foot off the pedal quickly enough. Once I got the hang of it, I made good progress. So far the issue appears to be resolved.
Thanks so much to everyone who helped out with suggestions!
Rob
 
save some money plastic 3.5 inch dwv plug abs or pvc I think youll get it out w out busting it out
 
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