Advice on stack and main line

[Tommy Fox]

I am looking to plumb a new addition (one story with full basement) to my house.
I have started to put things together, but I wanted to get some validation before I go further.

The addition has a kitchen and a mudroom.

The interesting thing about this addition is that part of its floor cantilever over the back wall of garage.
The cantilever section is about 3 ft above the garage floor.

So far, I have constructed the stack and a main line.

The stack goes into an existing cast iron hub with a rubber boot.
The 4-3 wye at bottom of stack is for future expansion, in case I have plumbing needs in the basement.
The 3 in test tee is for testing and trouble shooting.

I plan to cap the top of the stack as each fixture will be individually vented, thus no need to have a vent on the stack. Is this correct?

The connection to the bathroom sink is not made yet. The open 2 in 90 elbow is where it will catch the 2 in pipe from the sink. I'm using a 2 in because the toilet will be wet vented by the sink. Sink drain is normally 1.5 in, but because of it serving as a wet vent for the toilet, I am required to up it to 2in. Correct?

I need some advice on the pipe hanger. As you can see, they are too short. My plan is to put cross 2x4 into the joist bay, and hang the hanger from there. What's the right way to extend the hanger? Can I just use some steel wire?

The toilet plumbing is constructed as follows.
From the top, 4-3 coupler, then 2 street 45, then 3x2 wye (to catch the bathroom sink), finally into a 3x3 combo.
My plan for the toilet connection is to use a 3-in flange that fits inside a regular 4in pipe, this 4-in pipe goes into 4-3 coupler. I like this better than just a 3-in flange fitting outside a 3-in pipe, because it seems to have less chance of a leak.

Last picture is the section into the garage under the cantilever

I am running this main line via the garage because I don't want to cut into the I-joist or hang it below the joist inside the basement.
I am in NJ, the garage is unheated.

Since this is just the drain line, I believe it is ok to run the line via an unconditioned space. Correct?
Eventually I plan to frame a knee wall for the cantilever, in which case, it would make this section essentially the same as in the basement.

Thank you in advance for all your advice.

 

[Kreemoweet]

It is not an approved method to glue to the "inside" of any plastic pipe.

It's not a good idea, and prohibited by most plumbing codes, to install any drain piping where it is subject to freezing.

You need a permanent cleanout opening at the base of your drain stack.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Tommy Fox]

>

It is not an approved method to glue to the "inside" of any plastic pipe.

It's not a good idea, and prohibited by most plumbing codes, to install any drain piping where it is subject to freezing.


You need a permanent cleanout opening at the base of your drain stack.

Thanks for the reply.

Here's the toilet flange I'm using

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-x-4-in-PVC-DWV-Closet-Flange-886-PPK/202313218

The description explicitly states that "Fits over a 3 in. or inside a 4 in. pipe".
It would seem I can glue the flange to sit inside a 4 in pipe.

On the waste pipe via garage, a waste pipe should be empty normally. There is still a freeze risk?
I do not plan to run water lines via the garage.
And once I close off the cantilever section with a knee wall, then it's technically in the same thermal envelop as the basement.
Would that be OK then?

On the permanent cleanout, there is a permanent test tee cleanout right above the bottom wye. Yes, it's not at the very bottom.
It is not sufficient? If the inspector is picky, I suppose I can make the wye into a cleanout, would that be OK then?

 

[Kreemoweet]

Here's the toilet flange I'm using

Wherever did you get the idea that, because something is sold at Home Depot (or any other consumer outlet), that it is suitable
or even legal to be used in a Code-approved manner? Those so-called "home improvement centers" are full of Chinese schlock,
and other shoddy goods, that fails to meet any relevant building code requirements. Find a source from a plumbing code or a recognized plumbing standards organization that approves that manner of joining pipes, and I'll withdraw my statement.

... a waste pipe should be empty normally.

Believe what you like, but my experience tells me that, in cold weather, there very well could be a constant trickle of condensation
running down the pipes that could very well freeze when it encounters an unprotected section of pipe. I have several times encountered
blocked drains due to freezing (even in vertical pipes!). And this in Seattle, which is not known for severe low temperatures.
I can not tell from your info exactly what conditions your pipes will encounter,
but you should certainly give the matter some consideration. No doubt your local plumbing code enforcement folks will be able to inform you
about local experience and requirements.

... there is a permanent test tee ...

.

A test tee is not a cleanout fitting, at least in general. My reading of the UPC will not allow it as a cleanout there. Your local code may differ:
again, your local authority will be able to tell you what's what. Even if code-allowed, the requirement for an immediate right-angle turn
for any tool inserted should argue against it. An additional wye continuing from the one in place, with the connection for the
"future expansion" oriented vertically, would be my choice. The orientation of those fittings is also not compatible with any future
installation of a wall there, as folks frequently do in their basements.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

If the drain going into the floor is a 4" line, the cleanout must be the same.

 

[hj]

An "inserted" 4x3 flange is COMPLETELY legal, although I only use it for retrofits after the original "all plastic" flange has disintegrated. Drain line are often in unheated areas and ONLY freeze if a faucet is leaking or clogged up. "Cleanout tees" are USUALLY used for cleanouts. SO, where did you get your "information" from?