Adding sink next to washing machine in basement

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by AndyKy99, Sep 11, 2019.

  1. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    I have read a lot of threads and I have seen Terry's pic he always posts for this scenario. I found another image online showing something that I believe is allowable for code (from Ontario Plumber's association) so just had a couple of questions. This diagram at bottom shows the sink going directly into stand pipe and both of them sharing the same p trap. Is this acceptable in this scenario? Terry has it tied right into the vent pipe instead of the stand pipe and he always advises to do a separate venting but I don't want to over complicate it. I'll be doing this with my brother so I just want the simplest system that will work and not present problems. I believe that floor piping goes to a drain near my foot. Vertical pipe is 1.5", everything else is 2"

    I will be putting the tub to the right in my pic, coming out to the right of that stud and tying in above p trap.

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    Here is a description for diagram

    "1) The size of the trap for the laundry tub which receives the indirectly connected washing machine drain, would be 1 ½” as per Table 7.4.9.3 (item 18) if the tub is less than 3 compartments.

    2) If a drain is installed to serve a laundry tub and a standpipe (aka. standing waste pipe) for a washing machine (ie. laundry box), the common p-trap and the piping that serves the stand pipe would require to be min. 2” size as per Table 7.4.9.3 (item 9) See sketch."
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019
  2. Tuttles Revenge

    Tuttles Revenge In the Trades

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2014
    If that is acceptable practice in the area you live then that would be the simplest method. It is not allowed in my area because all fixtures must have their own ptrap. Its not much different than a double compartment sink except some older clothes washers can pump a lot of water.

    Of bigger concern to me is that ice maker saddle tap tee that is attached to the pex pipe... That is a ticking time bomb. Even if that is PexAlPex, there isn't enuf structure to the tubing to compress and maintain a seal. In my area, saddle taps are only allowed under the sink or in the exterior of the building.
     
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  4. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    Ahhhh. I wasn't even sure what you were referring to but now I know. I believe my father-in-law installed that when he putting in the line for the fridge because there was nothing set up behind the fridge. What would be the best way to correct it? What is the function of it saddle tap?

     
  5. Sylvan

    Sylvan Still learning

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2004
    Occupation:
    plumbing- - fire suppression
    Location:
    New York
    The function of a saddle valve is to create jobs for a licensed plumber to make an emergency call when the flood appears

    The saddle valve is used to mutilate a perfect sound pipe and cause it to fail

    A decent mechanic would have installed a Tee and then a ball valve on the bull of the tree and use adapter fittings such as compression connect the ice maker line
     
  6. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    Thanks for the quick reply. Since I am going to have to cut and add connections for my waterline to sink I can do this at the same time. I am just wondering about the right connection to connect 1/4 polyethylene to pex. the polyethylene can use compression fiting? I used sharkbite in my last house for dishwasher. However I am having trouble finding a connection that is PEX to polyethylene (maybe I don't know the short form lingo). This kit doesn't seem compatible with PEX. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sharkbite-ice-maker-install-kit/1000862120 Any product from sharkbite that would work?
     
  7. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida Black Belly Whistling Ducks

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    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Orlando, Florida
    I would unload the plastic water line for the refrigerator or humidifier and replace it with copper or with PEX tubing. I just had a new refrigerator delivered by HD and had them make the ice maker connection. They used PEX tubing. Also, the saddle valve on PEX is not a good way to go. Notice the PEX is deformed. Cut it out and use a Sharkbite 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/4" tee with a valve.

    My son bought a house where the clowns that installed the new kitchen put in by the previous owner had this tubing behind the wall up into the attic and down the wall at the new location for the remodeled kitchen. One day he comes home and the wall is full of water. The tubing cracked inside the wall. I used this stuff before since at one time there wasn't much else. I used it between the wall and refrigerator and I was never comfortable with it. I did change it over one day with copper tubing.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...NCXz5JB6-IhGjLL3epcaAikREALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

    [​IMG]
     
  8. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    Thanks for the advice. I think it would have been ideal to use PEX in the first place too. That link that you attached, does that work with the existing polyethylene or is that only if I set up a 1/4 PEX line? I am afraid I am home only for another week or so and then I have to leave for almost 6 months for school so I just want to get this laundry tub set up for my wife. Maybe when I get back I can take the fridge out and run a new line etc but don't have time to mess with all that right now.
     
  9. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida Black Belly Whistling Ducks

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    Oct 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    Retired
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    Sharkbite has all kinds of pipe type connectors, you'll need to look it up. There are probably millions of homes with this plastic waterline and saddle valve, it will last for quite a while.
     
  10. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    I think it will work, I looked in the Q+A on some of the product pages and they said you can put polyethylene into it. I am attaching a picture of what it will be doing. Green is just showing my 90 degree and t connections. Does it matter where I tie in the fridge line, can it be in same spot?

    Basically the washer and sink will share the same P trap and the ABS from sink will come down, do a 90 and connect directly into stand pipe. I know that the ABS for the drain for the sink is not the perfect scenario but as mentioned above this is allowed by code in Ontario.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Tuttles Revenge

    Tuttles Revenge In the Trades

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2014
    Yes, the saddle tap will Last for quite a while before it floods your house.

    When you make the connections for the laundry sink cut out the saddle tee and install 2 cold water and 1 hot stub outs under the sink. 1 cold valve will supply cold water to the faucet and the other cold valve will be 1/4" . Run a 1/4" copper line from under the laundry sink to the fridge and make the connection under the sink. This way you will always have an easily accessible valve to shut off water to the fridge.
     
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  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Please remove the saddle tee. We don't need to hear from you latter that it failed on you. The wall is open, now is the time to change it.
     
    Tuttles Revenge likes this.
  13. AndyKy99

    AndyKy99 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2019
    Location:
    Ontario
    Thanks for the advice everyone. I did remove the saddle tee, might as well while we are doing the work. Was a bit more tricky in a couple of spots than anticipated.We didn't want to have to raise the laundry outlet box so used the flex coupling. Hardware store guy said it was acceptable for ABS so hope it is OK. Maybe could have used a slip coupler but I wasn't aware at the time.

    Tested all the systems out and everything is good to go. Attached a pic as well in case anyone in the future reads the thread. We ended up going straight through the drywall (just a few 90 degrees, using same p trap as washing standpipe) as the drain and water lines were better aligned then anticipated.


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