Adding Additional Water Shutoff

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Sheenbean

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Hello all,
Hope everyone is doing well.

Wanted some feedback and advice. I am adding a 1" zwave shutoff valve on inside of house just after the shutoff outside.

Questions:
1. Any issues with adding this before or after the regulator? I was going to move it up to have a little more room
2. Is the 1 in. Copper Pressure Cup x MIP Male Adapter the correct fittings to use or should I use a brass version
3. Any suggestions on brackets to support the valve or copper pipe around the valve being that its vertical and quite heavy
4. I'm comfortable with the mechanics behind soldering from lots of electrical. I am sure there are nuances, but outside of water concerns and making sure its very dry anything else to watch out for? I have found the recommended solder amount by pipe size and other tips. Just wanting to check in with you all
5 Giving the fixed nature, will the valve or accompanying motor be damaged from heat due to soldering? Should I solder the coupler to a longer pipe section, attach that to the valve and then solder it in? Is there a recommended distance from components that you follow to avoid damage from heat soaking?
 

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breplum

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I don't recommend soldering 1" for and by beginners.
We would use ProPress adapters, no solder, no flux, no problems.
Bracing with anything that can fit. We normally would use channel and VibraClamps
 

Sheenbean

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I don't recommend soldering 1" for and by beginners.
We would use ProPress adapters, no solder, no flux, no problems.
Bracing with anything that can fit. We normally would use channel and VibraClamps
I saw you comment on that process in another post. I'm very intrigued and did research it some. $2K for the tool is spendy, ill have to think it over. But I have a few jobs around the house that would probably pay for itself in time and reduced headache.
 

Reach4

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You are talking about the ProPress tool; there are much cheaper hand tools that use the word "Press" rather than ProPress. I think the "press" tools work on ProPress fittings. However I have not used such tools or installed such fittings.
 

Jeff H Young

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You are talking about the ProPress tool; there are much cheaper hand tools that use the word "Press" rather than ProPress. I think the "press" tools work on ProPress fittings. However I have not used such tools or installed such fittings.
I've used Propress , but didn't realize the selection of brands and hand tools available. Sure can be handy for certain jobs though I yet to own one . they are quick , easy, reliable and pricey (as are the fittings) but some of these off brands might be the ticket for some. can neither recommend nor condemn . I suppose there might be a money back warranty if dissatisfied
 

Sheenbean

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Question, for the 1" threaded fitting into my shutoff, That should be brass too since its stronger and easier to get good torque yes?

I found some brass crimp fittings that match the need. The tools don't say brass but it says copper and Stainless steel, which should be adequate for brass.

You are talking about the ProPress tool; there are much cheaper hand tools that use the word "Press" rather than ProPress. I think the "press" tools work on ProPress fittings. However I have not used such tools or installed such fittings.
Good call on that. I looked them up found some options. My only concern is the long handles used for leverage. Quite common when trying to apply significant force that you end up twisting / rocking it more than clamping it causing uneven pressure / crimping. And you cant simply remove the fitting or stretch the copper :). There are a few hydraulic ones possible as well.

I've been a technician for most of my life and do not mind investing in tools that will last. The battery powered version is a little over the top expensive imo but given that it looks like the most consistent and quickest, it might be the way to go.
 
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Reach4

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Are batteries today longer-lasting calendar-wise? In NiCads I expect the 10 year old tool battery to be bad, even if it has not been used. Cellphone batteries are often the main motivation in swapping cellphones, but there are also the expiration type features that cellphones often have.
 

Jeff H Young

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ok here is a clean way to build this. on top of regulator change the sweat union to IPS cut that crap out above the loop and hose bib.
On top of union screw a brass nipple then a brass tee (1x1x3/4 threaded) the 3/4 will be for a new bib on top of tee another 1 inch nipple then your new valve , on top of new valve a 1 inch male adapter (your choice sweat or press) cheaper than a bunch of propress fittings and screwed pipe works good even if you decide to buy a press gun this is a clean way to build it my opinion
 

Jeff H Young

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buying a tool My opinion is a waste especialy for many hundreds if not few grand. what amounts to a single joint a male adapter is the only single joint needed or desireable
 

Sheenbean

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Are batteries today longer-lasting calendar-wise? In NiCads I expect the 10 year old tool battery to be bad, even if it has not been used. Cellphone batteries are often the main motivation in swapping cellphones, but there are also the expiration type features that cellphones often have.
Lithium Ion is far better than Nicad from a discharge standpoint, but the batteries will probably only last a few years (3 is warranty). The main issue with NiCad is it discharges very fast and a fully depleted battery degrades very fast iirc. I could be wrong on that but that is what memory serves. Also a lot of factors such as use, charge cycles etc.

For me I'd use it about 5 times over the next 6 months and then it would sit until needed for next project in a year or so that may never happen lol. But those 5 projects would essentially cost me around $3k+ in labor, probably more. Still so expensive maybe not worth it. I could also turn around and sell it I suppose.
 

Sheenbean

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I don't recommend soldering 1" for and by beginners.
We would use ProPress adapters, no solder, no flux, no problems.
Bracing with anything that can fit. We normally would use channel and VibraClamps
I ended up going this route. Bought the tool and put it in today. I did remove the bib and the future waters softener / filter loop. Ill add it back if I ever go that route.

Channel and vibraclamps are on order, ill put that in next week or so.

ok here is a clean way to build this. on top of regulator change the sweat union to IPS cut that crap out above the loop and hose bib.
On top of union screw a brass nipple then a brass tee (1x1x3/4 threaded) the 3/4 will be for a new bib on top of tee another 1 inch nipple then your new valve , on top of new valve a 1 inch male adapter (your choice sweat or press) cheaper than a bunch of propress fittings and screwed pipe works good even if you decide to buy a press gun this is a clean way to build it my opinion
Thanks for all the help and advice. I just went with simple approach for now.

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