Add shower to 1930's tub fixture

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James V

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Looking for information / ideas regarding old tub fixture in picture (maybe 1930's). Want to add shower with rectangular stand alone curtain rod for elderly mother. Her plumber recently retired and it has been a little difficult to get anyone who wants to work on this or offer ideas. Open to entire replacement if easily attached to the old supply lines. Not a plumber by any means but, do have some experience. Mostly new construction, know nothing about these old fixtures. Any information on available products, techniques and ideas would be greatly appreciated. This would be considered a short term fix.

tub 3.jpg
tub 4.jpg
 
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Jeff H Young

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not much help but I see w/c modern the tub is cool and valve and waste/overflow . It looks like a bit of mis match and uncertain of your desire to preserve the oldness. I'd start with a place that has a lot of old plumbing / salvage.
If its just function you might be able tap into valve body but you need some sort of diverter. we don't have much old here, I've seen the exposed shower pipes but not so much gotta be a lot of that kind of stuff in East
 

Tuttles Revenge

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That tub filler is no longer Legal because it is a cross contamination hazard. Either the tub spout needs to have an air gap/vacuum breaker built into it or moved to above the flood level of the tub to create a physical air gap.

If I were to propose a solution to you as a professional that keeps the tub in place. I would have to disable the tub spout and provide a shower mixer that has scald protection. I would eliminate the beautiful cross handle valves that supply the tub spout and plumb the hot and cold up to something like this which would be free standing but would need some rigid support system created by a circular shower curtain.

https://www.hansgrohe-usa.com/artic...pe-150-1-jet-with-tub-filler-2-0-gpm-27143001

154__hpu60261_tif.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

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That's a nice looking 1200 dollar valve that solves the hazard, is one good right way to do it. Kind of a crazy or not so crazy Idea might be adding a separate complete shower only valve then the tub valve might be ok to leave as is. There are factors like is this some historical property? or just an old house that needs a shower ? overall condition is it kind of a teardown or a museum. other bathrooms have fiberglass tubs and un matching. A 1200 dollar valve just to get started would have me thinking. the one pictured is pretty cool but not 1930s looking to me but a good example
 

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Jeff H Young

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that's good to have options that preserve the old character. a lot for homeowner to consider,
 

Jeff H Young

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absolutely not allowed to build like that and such a serious violation . if doing work any type of plumbing around that tub might get a correction from inspector. they tend to look the other way on unrelated work water supply issue if significant work is being done I would expect possible issue with inspector.
no body cared for 90 years but perhaps Op will correct the cross connection
 

James V

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That tub filler is no longer Legal because it is a cross contamination hazard. Either the tub spout needs to have an air gap/vacuum breaker built into it or moved to above the flood level of the tub to create a physical air gap.

If I were to propose a solution to you as a professional that keeps the tub in place. I would have to disable the tub spout and provide a shower mixer that has scald protection. I would eliminate the beautiful cross handle valves that supply the tub spout and plumb the hot and cold up to something like this which would be free standing but would need some rigid support system created by a circular shower curtain.

https://www.hansgrohe-usa.com/artic...pe-150-1-jet-with-tub-filler-2-0-gpm-27143001

154__hpu60261_tif.jpg
Thank you for the reply. I was able to attach a handheld shower head (with little valve) to the tub filler a few years ago. Still can't stand for shower, maybe 3' long. Just curious, the shower head does hang above flood level, would that meet code? Guessing no, tub still fills at same location. The free standing valves / curtain rod is what I was hoping for but, a little more expensive than expected for a temporary fix. I have unsuccessfully tried to talk her into complete gut of the bathroom. Afraid of opening the "can of worms".
 

Tuttles Revenge

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The tub spout in the tub is the deal breaker.. A shower hose/handheld if it can reach into the tub too needs to have a vacuum breaker to prevent it from being able to suck water back into the water supply. But that vacuum breaker can't be inside the flood level of the tub.
 

Jeff H Young

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Thank you for the reply. I was able to attach a handheld shower head (with little valve) to the tub filler a few years ago. Still can't stand for shower, maybe 3' long. Just curious, the shower head does hang above flood level, would that meet code? Guessing no, tub still fills at same location. The free standing valves / curtain rod is what I was hoping for but, a little more expensive than expected for a temporary fix. I have unsuccessfully tried to talk her into complete gut of the bathroom. Afraid of opening the "can of worms".
I would think a modification could come along that wasn't hideous. change that to an overflow hole with spout above tub. but that stuff isn't that inexpensive. then again if its only function and compliance . Tutlles mentioned a vacuum breaker if hose can reach into tub , but if hose can't reach into tub perhaps no vacuum breaker needed ? how about shower only?
 

DIYorBust

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Is the goal to make it code compliant, or to make a shower? If the latter, I would just tap in somewhere and install a shower system independent of the tub valves. If the former, I wonder if it would be possible to make a high loop and put vacuum breakers kind of like in the geberit tub mounted spout.
https://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/products/geberit-bathtub-drains/cascading-tub-filler/

However it would be necessary to put the vacuum breakers on the supply rather than the filler, not sure if that's permitted.
 

Marlinman

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Here is a couple of ideas from Strom Living AKA Sign of the Crab. The majority of the upgrades I have seen left the original tub filler and installed a separate shower on the side wall.

STR-P1176.jpg


P1176S


upload_2021-6-18_5-48-10.jpeg
P0699C
 

Jeff H Young

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Is the goal to make it code compliant, or to make a shower? If the latter, I would just tap in somewhere and install a shower system independent of the tub valves. If the former, I wonder if it would be possible to make a high loop and put vacuum breakers kind of like in the geberit tub mounted spout.
https://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/products/geberit-bathtub-drains/cascading-tub-filler/

However it would be necessary to put the vacuum breakers on the supply rather than the filler, not sure if that's permitted.


Unclear to me but seems its not a big budget job , which to me is understandable maybe he just needs a shower he did say not gutting the bathroom. So I'm trying to feel this out maybe only has a couple hundred bucks to spend that's ok we are all in different situation maybe a major remodel coming in a year or 2 . even the esthetics of it might not matter much don't know don't care but a bunch of us are eager to offer ideas if we have the info
 

Tuttles Revenge

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OK... I got an idea. It looks like the nipple in the tub spout used for a short shower hose is threaded in. What about replacing it with a couple threaded elbows that point up.. to some form of valved tub spout thats out of the flood level then up to a shower head that gets anchored to the ceiling?
 

James V

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Unclear to me but seems its not a big budget job , which to me is understandable maybe he just needs a shower he did say not gutting the bathroom. So I'm trying to feel this out maybe only has a couple hundred bucks to spend that's ok we are all in different situation maybe a major remodel coming in a year or 2 . even the esthetics of it might not matter much don't know don't care but a bunch of us are eager to offer ideas if we have the info
Was looking for ideas and difficulty of retrofitting existing tub fixture to add shower (easily and cheaply). Mother is 86 and her only shower is in basement. Trying to give her shower in upstairs bathroom without gutting the bath. Kind of short term, temporary work that does not look terrible. Based on all of the posts, which I really appreciate, thinking I may not want to get into this old bath valve myself.
 

James V

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Is the goal to make it code compliant, or to make a shower? If the latter, I would just tap in somewhere and install a shower system independent of the tub valves. If the former, I wonder if it would be possible to make a high loop and put vacuum breakers kind of like in the geberit tub mounted spout.
https://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/products/geberit-bathtub-drains/cascading-tub-filler/

However it would be necessary to put the vacuum breakers on the supply rather than the filler, not sure if that's permitted.
Primary goal is to add shower to existing however; house will be sold at some point and would like work to meet code too if practical. Do you mean tapping into the existing waste valve supply lines? Previous plumber did that for adjacent toilet. Looks like black iron pipe for the T, is that normal? Do the old valves have same threads as current pipe / fittings? Can galvanized pipe fittings be used to tap in?
 

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Reach4

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Mother is 86 and her only shower is in basement.
Will she be able to climb into and out of the tub for long, without falling? I would think you would want grab bars, or at least hold bars. Or replace the tub with a big shower.

Or maybe consider she switch houses.
 

DIYorBust

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Yes you can tee off the other side like was done for the toilet. I'd try to transition it to copper as quickly as possible. Before you do anything, determine if the existing pipe is brass. If it is, I'd use a lead free brass tee, ideally red brass, and then immediately transition to copper, or maybe pex.

If it's galvanized, you never want galvanized in contact with copper in a water supply line, it will fill up with rust and clog or leak at the joint. Some say it's okay to thread brass to galvanized, but I wouldn't myself. Probably a dielectric fitting at the transition would be the way to address that.

On the other side, I'd try to come off the toilet supply, because that's easier to work on. You may consider if you can do this without breaking the unions on the 1930s fixture, as it may be hard to get them to seal again afterwards. I'm not sure what your plan is, but if it's not a DIY job, a decent plumber should be able to appraise the situation and come up with a strategy to branch off those lines.
 
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