Adapt Cast Iron Main Cleanout -- DW

[Chefwong]

I'm helping my brother in-law do a little remodeling in his new house.
When locating the main to shut off the water, I came across this.

The PVC in the pic is a short run of 15 feet or so to a utility/laundry sink in the basement.

However, the PVC male fitting adapter is not tight to the cleanout hole as depicted.
The cleanout has no threads in it. The male adapter sits flush and due to the horizontal PVC, it's holding the male adapter fairly flush/tight against the cleanout.

The RED arrow is the direction of the water to the city sewer main
How do I go about making this right.

 

[Chefwong]

Nevermind. Got it sorted out. Fernco Donut.
I plan to just do a 3x3x 1.5" WYE where it meets the horizontal.

From the donut off the main, should Ferno off the Wye to the Pipe ?
The only reason for this would be for easy removal if one needed access to the cleanout on the main versus the new cleanout off the Wye

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Chefwong]

Before I start....can I pour diluted bleach or vinegar around the soil just to disinfect.
Something safe for the CI, brass, and copper in/near the area

 

[hj]

I am not sure what you asking when you start referring to a "Fernco" off the "Y", but you are NOT supposed to use Ferncos inside a building and NEVER above the floor. Does that sink drain have a vent in it somewhere, because if it does not then it makes no difference how long it is, because it is still incorrect.

 

[Chefwong]

There is a 2" Pipe right off the sink that goes about 5 feet up and then out the side wall.

The donut I was referring to was this
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts


The vertical off the donut - bearing it's the front house cleanout - I was thinking the vertical that goes up off the donut - I would put a No Hub Coupler on it so that if it ever needs to be removed to service the cleanout right off the main (it's somewhat) accessible to remove the vertical stack due to the no hub fitting vs. a completely glued in PVC fixed setup.

A rough pic description here...

 

[Chefwong]

I dug around the pipe and it's too rusted out to make any discernible markings.

I guess I'll pick up both the XH and SV donut.

How tight is tight supposed to fit. Meaning if I put either donuts on, and both feel *snug* when trying to fit it....which one of the 2 is the correct size.

 

[Jadnashua]

If it's the correct size, it's difficult to insert the plastic pipe into the donut - it takes some force. It is a compression seal, so it does need to be tight to work. As noted in another thread...there is NO strict standard for hub sizes (only pipe ID), and Fernco makes LOTS of different incremental sizes. So, neither one may work. The suppliers generally know what's in the area and stock one(s) that will work, but it depends on the age, the foundry and luck of the draw.

 

[Cwhyu2]

You are wasting into a house trap or running trap and is illegal.There is a trap and the clean outs are to service the
building drain the one the PVC is connected to,and the other is to service the building sewer.And to clean out the trap that is under the floor.

 

[Phaedrus123]

no short cuts

you got a cast iron double vented house trap.the first plug is on the street side,what you are tying into is the house side ,usually we access here when there is a stoppage.that 4 inch pvc at the back of the pic is your fresh air vent to release sewer gases from the building.now what you really should do is cut a wye in to the waste pipe after the fresh air pipe.it might require more work but that is the correct way to do it ,by the way i got a chuckle about dis infecting the area,roll up your sleeves and get in there.do it right dont look for short cuts,you also dont want to blow the seal on the trap