ABS well seal weight limit.

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sheetpilot

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TLDR;

-Is there a wight limit for ABS over iron well seals? I can lift my pump by hand a couple inches, even with galv drop pipe, so I assume it's no issue.
-Tips for finding well depth besides pulling the pump and dropping a line? (4" casing, assume I wont be able to get past pump/stabilizer)

I'm in the process of cleaning up my water treatment and well. Replacing well seal is next as it's old, rusted to bits, and not sealing. I'm also trying to figure out the depth of the well itself and the pump. Easy to figure out the pump by just dropping a line down, but to find the actual well depth I don't think I could get past the pump reliably. Mostly just curious. Tag doesn't state depth unfortunately.
 

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Even if you can get a weighted line down past the pipe and wire, you may not get it back out. It certainly won't go past the pump. ABS seals can hold a lot of weight. They give in over time if you have a couple hundred feet of galvanized hanging from them, but you wouldn't be able to lift that by hand.
 

sheetpilot

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Even if you can get a weighted line down past the pipe and wire, you may not get it back out. It certainly won't go past the pump. ABS seals can hold a lot of weight. They give in over time if you have a couple hundred feet of galvanized hanging from them, but you wouldn't be able to lift that by hand.

Hmm, to maybe stick with iron then? ABS was easier to find. And yea it's likely not very far down, wells here typically hit the aquifer in 100' or so and have a water level only 30' down.
 
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Reach4

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That looks really nice! :)
I was thinking that too. It's the yard irrigation distribution pipes that look less ordered. I was trying to figure out where that pipe with the injector from the peristaltic pump (peroxide or chlorine probably) goes, but I suspect it is in the path to the big tank on the left. There should be a drain valve after the injector before the pipe goes up. There will be solids there that you will want to flush out.
 
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sheetpilot

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The water goes clockwise, from injector to tank, tank will settle anything and has a blowdown.

There's 3 supplies, one goes into ground by well to house, then the two off to the side go to a barn (treated) and irrigation (raw). I could have gone across the floor twice instead of 4 times, but it would have made things take longer. I kind of wish I had though, either way it's better than before.

Also I should have put a union at every threaded connection, I hit the CSV and PT but the contact tank and the filter aren't, and of course they are slow dripping despite being fully tight.

I'm going to clean up the casing and hit it with some implement paint too, flaked off a couple handfuls of rust. luckily that's not actually all that much steel since rust expands so much.
 

Reach4

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he water goes clockwise, from injector to tank, tank will settle anything and has a blowdown.
As long as the flow is big enough to lift the precipitate in the pipe, good deal.

When dealing with NPT threaded connections, to minimize the chance of leaking, consider both PTFE tape and plastic-safe pipe dope. I like the PTFE to not be the cheapest stuff. I like the yellow tape that is OK for gas, even with water. I am not a pro.
 

Reach4

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Salvageable? Not with normal means AFAIK. However looking at https://www.charlottepipe.com/Products/Assets/02C-PVC_List_Price/PDS-PVC-40-BE-PIPE-319.pdf it looks like glued bell-end 3-inch pipe could fit into a 4 inch casing. Maybe 3 inch electrical pvc conduit could work. A 3 inch pump is 2.9 inches OD. If you put glued pvc down a well (not normal) I would let the glued joint sit for 24 hours or more. There are specs as to how much time it takes for different strength bond. Don't wait just a few minutes as is often done, because a joint with weight hanging down is different.

Schedule 4o pvc is roomy for a pump. Schedule 80-- I did not look that up.

I don't know how far down your casing goes, and I don't know how far down your well goes. Some wells are case all of the way, and others are only cased down to bedrock.
 

sheetpilot

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Hard to patch when the rest of the casing is just as thin. One of the best investments you can make is a good water well. Nice way of saying sorry.

The rest of the casing wont be as thin. It's only from 96. This was brought to you by the idiocy of concreting in the casing in the open elements.

I know the right way to fix this is to dig down cut and weld either a new section or a threaded adapter. It's just a whole lot of work.
 

Reach4

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Some codes would permit you to use a Dresser coupling. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/extend-well-casing-weld-or-dresser-coupling.53585/
For example, this New Hampshire document specifically mentions Dresser couplings: https://www.des.nh.gov/organization/commissioner/pip/factsheets/dwgb/documents/dwgb-1-14.pdf

If you adapt to 5 inch at the weld/coupling, you could put a pitless on there. While normally a pitless is used for freeze-prevention, it has the added advantage of being more of a plug-in/drop-in connection, rather than having to unscrew couplings. You get a well cap that can be lifted for easy well sanitizing.
 
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