ABS pipe joint leak in a very tight space

[RoundDIY]

Hello,

I'm just a diyer for my house. I found a leak from an ABS drain pipe joint as shown attached. It's in a very tight space located above the top of a closet wall and below the bathroom above on the second floor. Leaking water drizzles down into the wall below. May I ask what would be the best way to fix the leaking joint? The pipe has a 2 inch diameter, draining from the bathtub and vanity sink on the second floor.

Probably, the best would be to cut the joint, use a Socket Saver Tool bit to remove the old part, and add new pipes and fittings? How easy is it to use the Saver tool? I don't have you worry about additional damages from the vibration while using the drill bit? There are many fittings connected to each other in the tight area, and it doesn't seem easy for me to replace a part of them.

Is there a flexible coupling that would fit the outer diameter of the female joints? I thought it would be easier to cut the leaking joint and connect the pipe with a flexible joint, but they seem to be made for the pipe sizes not for the outer diameter of female parts.

Is there any easier but reliable fix? Putting ABS cement around the joint will fix? JB Waterweld? Or, self-sealing silicon tape? I wonder how long these easy fixes would last.

Thanks!

 

[Terry]

We always find that removing the pipe from the fitting is what winds up happening.
Drilling it out is a pretty smooth process. It looks like you will have to go into the wall below to make that repair happen, to get the new pipe into the fitting above. You're close, but not quite there.

One or two inches before it hits the top plate and you could have used a shielded coupling at the bottom. Still might use one, but likely into the wall below.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I would go with the self sealing silicone tape, topped with black Scotch 66 electrical tape. I am not a plumber, so I am not held to as high a standard.

 

[John Gayewski]

Cut the space between the fittings, remove the 45 offset. Use socket saver. Rebuild 45 offset and no hub back into place

 

[RoundDIY]

I would go with the self sealing silicone tape, topped with black Scotch 66 electrical tape. I am not a plumber, so I am not held to as high a standard.

Thanks for the suggestion. This would be the easiest. I already have a roll of this tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWROLIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How permanent is this fix going to be? What's the purpose of topping with black Scotch 66 electrical tape? Considering the age of my house, the leak happened after 31 years since glued. I don't want to open the dry wall again in the next at least 30 years.

 

[John Gayewski]

No tape will stick to pipe over time.

 

[Reach4]

What's the purpose of topping with black Scotch 66 electrical tape? Considering the age of my house, the leak happened after 31 years since glued. I don't want to open the dry wall again in the next at least 30 years.

Silicone tape stays flexible. It sticks to itself and not to other things. The electrical tape is stronger in tension, and would apply compressive force over the silicone.

Another outer wrap could be a shielded coupling with the rubber sliced. The stainless band can be removed opened, and tightened back over the rubber.

You would measure the OD, and locate a suitable coupling. A digital caliper is the tool of choice to measure ODs.

 

[Terry]

Sometimes pipes and fittings crack over time. Small earth movements, sometimes compression as the homes settle.
As wood dries, the walls get shorter.

 

[RoundDIY]

Thanks for the suggestions, and I am amazed how everyone is so supportive here! I wrapped the leak with self-fusing silicone tape as a temporary fix for now though I haven't tested it yet.

I was planning to pick up a Socket Saver Tool from a local Ferguson store: https://www.ferguson.com/searchBranch?_requestid=115105 The tip does not look safe; it may not provide a robust guide not to damage the outer pipe. Any ideas on how good it is? I don't want to damage the outer fitting as it would require a much bigger/complex replacement.

In the contrast, this one at Amazon has at least a full circle washer: https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephe...58&s=hi&sprefix=Socket+Saver,tools,203&sr=1-2

I also find a more expensive one with a much sturdier shape like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/PPR200-Clean-Extreme-8-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B005STKRLA/ref=sr_1_25?crid=214GT8DIJQFN7&keywords=socket+saver+2&qid=1649293126&s=hi&sprefix=Socket+Saver%2Ctools%2C203&sr=1-25

But I guess it would be an overkill for one-time use.

 

[John Gayewski]

We use the ones in thr second link all the time. They are fine.

 

[RoundDIY]

I will be cutting the leaky joint and the pipe below for replacement. For connecting the pipe part again, am I supposed to use a no hub shielded coupling or hub coupling? It seems like a no hub shielded one is the right one, but why won't a simple hub coupling work?

 

[John Gayewski]

I will be cutting the leaky joint and the pipe below for replacement. For connecting the pipe part again, am I supposed to use a no hub shielded coupling or hub coupling? It seems like a no hub shielded one is the right one, but why won't a simple hub coupling work?

With fixed points there's sometimes not enough flex to get a regular coupling onto the pipe. Enter the no hub band.

 

[RoundDIY]

I finally did it today after dealing with some personal distractions. Thanks for the advice and encouragement!