About to have the water heater replaced. Connection question.

[GilLennox]

I have an older CraftMaster water heater we are looking to replace; it has been installed at least 23 years and I am ashamed to admit, I never maintained it such as drain flushing and replacing the anode rod periodically, yet it is still working well apparently. Though I suspect not as efficient most likely from scale deposits. The water heater has brass nipples connecting between the heater and galvanized steel water pipes.
One plumber stated he was going to install copper lines to the galvanized steel lines; I suspect he wanted to make it easy for him as copper can be trimmed fairly easy. He did not mention dielectric fittings and I did not ask. I hope he intended to do. Another plumber stated he was going to use all galvanized piping. Given that the water tank has lasted this long with brass nipples; My question is: Is it advisable to request brass nipples again on the new water heater? My thought is somehow the brass connections were a factor in the water heater longevity or did I just get lucky and it is purely coincidental?

 

[Terry]

did I just get lucky and it is purely coincidental?

You got lucky.
Water heaters come with dielectric nipples anyway. Brass is nice, but what they come with works too.
I use corrugated copper, which happens to have dielectric ends too. I'm in earthquake country, so it's what our inspectors expect.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

I would not go to the trouble of messing with the fittings already on a
new water heater unless you dont have anything else better to do with your time

We have found that the galvanized fittings and nipples seems to be getting eaten up very
quickly with the city water in our area..... I would not throw a bunch of
that in the system---- I dont trust the stuff any more at all


I do concur with you on that brass nipple
the brass nipples seem to last forever around here
and never seem to corrode at all...... nothing seems to phase them
and I have re-used many of them over the years.....

I threw a used brass nipple on top of
my 75 gallon unit on the cold side and I threw a dialectric nipple on the
out-going hot side back in 2012 and they both seem to be holding up fine
Just Waiting on the heater to fail.....


The dialectric nipples installed on top of the heater will work perfectly fine
with those copper flex lines and is good enough

 

[Jadnashua]

If all of your supply piping is galvanized, and you've not had any issues, consider yourself lucky. Especially on the hot side which goes quicker, they all will eventually die from rusting, usually from the inside out. Copper to galvanized, not particularly good without a dielectric joint in between. Galvanized to brass works.

 

[GilLennox]

I appreciate all that have replied. I have done further research as well. Dielectric fittings were born out of the necessity of connecting steel to a copper water supply. I understand tanks come with dielectric fittings pre-installed on some models. I am hesitant to install (introduce) a copper line to my lines since I do not have any existing copper despite it being dielectric. By the way, there are reports of dielectric fittings failing within 5 years for various reasons such poor installation and soldering. Some have failed for no apparent reason, yet I have not seen a report of a brass nipple failing in contact with galvanized piping so you understand my misgivings about proceeding with corrugated copper water line. So how about this instead: Water tank, - dielectric fittings pre-installed - corrugated stainless steel (dielectric) - brass nipples - existing galvanized steel water supply. I still want to keep brass in it. I mean, it has proven itself. What do you think?

 

[Reach4]

Will you get a Chicago permit or try to conform to Chicago code? If either, I think you will not be allowed to use flex connectors. Things could have changed, but check.

 

[GilLennox]

Will you get a Chicago permit or try to conform to Chicago code? If either, I think you will not be allowed to use flex connectors. Things could have changed, but check.

I will certainly conform to code. I am aware that they want solid gas lines to the water heater. I am not sure about the water lines so I assume will be the same but I will check. The local big name home remodeling stores all sell the gas and water flex lines for some reason.

 

[Reach4]

The local big name home remodeling stores all sell the gas and water flex lines for some reason.

You really cannot go by that.

 

[GilLennox]

You really cannot go by that.

You are correct. Any way, just want to share a little bit of information on rigid gas lines to water heaters. I had a small leak in the middle of winter and did not want to bother with potential several trips to the local store so I hired plumbers that came in and fixed the leak. They noticed my years long existing water heater gas flex line since I bought the house and they stated they have to replace it or my gas would be shut off. Nevertheless, when they spring “codes” on you and it is the middle of winter you oblige. They said something to the effect my stove would also have to be to “code” but I objected forcibly and they relented. How the hell was I going to be able to move the stove to clean under. I knew I will not be moving the water heater. Now , I came across various codes in the country during my research and they make sense such as clamping, heat trap plumbing and “flex lines”. But I can not understand the rigid line codes. Here I was contemplating replacing it on my own; I have over 30 years automotive experience and able to put together systems. But now if they required rigid water lines as well, then they are forcing most home owners to hire a licensed plumber as now you have to take in consideration water lines height, length and union alignment as well as gas line rigid alignment. I am still to find out about rigid water lines but I kind of know the answer.

 

[Reach4]

But I can not understand the rigid line codes.

Chicago. Yoos got a problem with that?

 

[Phog]

They noticed my years long existing water heater gas flex line since I bought the house and they stated they have to replace it or my gas would be shut off.

That's terrible. Plumbers who go around scaring people about "code violations" that need to be corrected immediately, and then threaten to have their gas shut off(!) if they don't pay up right now (!!), give everyone a bad name. I don't know how things work in Chicago but here & many other places, plumbers can't red tag you anyway, they have to call in and "tattle" to the utility, who would then send someone out to inspect (likely at an appointment some days later unless they report it as an immediate safety issue such as an active gas leak). Plumbers who abuse this system and call in minor issues from customers who refuse their coercion/threats quickly would find themselves on the inspector's s*** list too. In short, it seems like they made an idle threat to you, and i would find a different plumber for your future needs. A simple "you should have this corrected, it's not to code" would have sufficed.

 

[hj]

It is really a UNION requirement. They do not want things to be easy for a DIYer or handyman to replace, or take too little time to do it. It is called "job security" and is common in all areas with a strong union presence.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

You are correct. Any way, just want to share a little bit of information on rigid gas lines to water heaters. I had a small leak in the middle of winter and did not want to bother with potential several trips to the local store so I hired plumbers that came in and fixed the leak. They noticed my years long existing water heater gas flex line since I bought the house and they stated they have to replace it or my gas would be shut off. Nevertheless, when they spring “codes” on you and it is the middle of winter you oblige. They said something to the effect my stove would also have to be to “code” but I objected forcibly and they relented. How the hell was I going to be able to move the stove to clean under. I knew I will not be moving the water heater. Now , I came across various codes in the country during my research and they make sense such as clamping, heat trap plumbing and “flex lines”. But I can not understand the rigid line codes. Here I was contemplating replacing it on my own; I have over 30 years automotive experience and able to put together systems. But now if they required rigid water lines as well, then they are forcing most home owners to hire a licensed plumber as now you have to take in consideration water lines height, length and union alignment as well as gas line rigid alignment. I am still to find out about rigid water lines but I kind of know the answer.

we see this a lot around here but the funny thing about it is most of these companies that play this game usually have a very low rating on google because of word of mouth and when
people figuring out that they have been screwed they scream and holler about it........

Of course you can hide behind the "code" and play this game if you so choose....
you can con little old ladies to install a pressure reducing valve for 700 bucks , or whatever
the market will bear....... its not honest or wise on any level....

and it will eventually come back on you.... Karma baby........