A little help please! Rough in/ venting and drain??

[Dan Piano]

So I’m adding a master bath at my house and the main stack is about 25 feet away from the new toilet drains. I have three concrete buttresses in the way and then I get to go through a block wall and sneak the drain behind a shower into a sweeping 90 and to the existing stack. I drew a couple diagrams and was just wondering what people thought. Any help/advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

I figured out that you wrote "Block Buttress" several times.

Is this your term for a pier holding up floor joists?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dan Piano]

I figured out that you wrote "Block Buttress" several times.

Is this your term for a pier holding up floor joists?

No they are 6’ x6’ block buttress’s to reinforce the foundation wall. They have about 2 feet in between the floor Joyce and the top of them.

 

[wwhitney]

Maybe you could put a scale on the side view. Do you really have to go through the buttresses, rather than over them or around them?

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Dan Piano]

I figured out that you wrote "Block Buttress" several times.

Is this your term for a pier holding up floor joists?

I hope this helps! I know it’s confusing!

 

[Dan Piano]

I hope this helps! I know it’s confusing!

Here is a view behind the shower! I can go over them I just didn’t know if it would be better to have the main drop right after the toilet or later on. Not sure if it matters.

 

[wwhitney]

Here is a view behind the shower! I can go over them I just didn’t know if it would be better to have the main drop right after the toilet or later on. Not sure if it matters.

Once the drains are vented, doesn't really matter. Maybe 1 or 2 sections at 2% slope and 1 or 2 drops is better than 5 or 6.

As far as the drain routing only, and keeping the basement clear, consider: travel horizontal through the joist bay towards the exterior basement wall. Turn down to just under the joists and just next to the basement wall (that can be done with a quarter bend rolled to descend at a 45, then a 45 to go horizontal, if you have enough width, and that would be helped by being fairly low in the joist bay). Proceed perpendicular to the joists, above the buttresses, along the basement wall to the back wall. And do whatever you need to reach the stack (I haven't grokked those photos yet).

I can't quite tell if there are any obstructions along that route. Obviously things are open next to the line of fluorescent lights, but that would be in your way more.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Dan Piano]

thanks for the reply Wayne. Unfortunately the joists are perpendicular to the drain, I don’t want to drill 3 1/2” holes in them. They are only 2x8. So if I’m understanding correctly I should slope it down at a 45 instead of 90 into the horizontal run around the shower. Makes good sense to me. Something like this…

 

[Reach4]

I presume the 3 new toilets are all on the floor above.

 

[Dan Piano]

thanks for the reply Wayne. Unfortunately the Joyce are perpendicular to the drain, I don’t want to drill 3 1/2” holes in them. They are only 2x8. So if I’m understanding correctly I should slope it down at a 45 instead of 90 into the horizontal run around the shower. Makes good sense to me

I presume the 3 new toilets are all on the floor above.

Just one toilet, one shower, and one sink. And yes they are on the floor above.

 

[wwhitney]

thanks for the reply Wayne. Unfortunately the joists are perpendicular to the drain, I don’t want to drill 3 1/2” holes in them. They are only 2x8. So if I’m understanding correctly

No, that's not what I was referencing, but maybe you were planning to do what I suggested anyway:

I see the joists, and that they are parallel to the buttresses, both of which are perpendicular to the exterior wall running parallel to the fluorescent lights. So I was say that the 3" drain can run within one joist bay, parallel to the joists, to be almost at that perpendicular wall. That if the drain is just above the bottom of the joists, drop say 4" to be just below the bottom of the joists, while simultaneously turning to be perpendicular to the joists and parallel to the exterior wall. That "turn and drop" can be done with a quarter bend and 45.

Maybe that's what the red line in your first picture shows anyway, just not sure how far off that exterior wall you were thinking of running.


Cheers, Wayne

 

[Dan Piano]

No, that's not what I was referencing, but maybe you were planning to do what I suggested anyway:

I see the joists, and that they are parallel to the buttresses, both of which are perpendicular to the exterior wall running parallel to the fluorescent lights. So I was say that the 3" drain can run within one joist bay, parallel to the joists, to be almost at that perpendicular wall. That if the drain is just above the bottom of the joists, drop say 4" to be just below the bottom of the joists, while simultaneously turning to be perpendicular to the joists and parallel to the exterior wall. That "turn and drop" can be done with a quarter bend and 45.

Maybe that's what the red line in your first picture shows anyway, just not sure how far off that exterior wall you were thinking of running.


Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne,
The toilet is right above that wall. Off of it by about a foot or so. So I was going to run it straight along the wall like you suggested. I guess my questions are these. Is it better to drop straight down or do it with a 45 like in the last photo I posted. I’m just wondering what will move the waste the best. Also would it work if I put one of those stooder vents(not sure on the spelling) in the wall cavity or would it be better to just run it in the attic and connect it to another roof vent?