A Couple of Mini Split Questions

charleso123

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Hi, I'm considering moving from oil to mini splits, and have a couple of basic questions that I hope you can help with.
Based on previous dialogue with Dana Dorsett (he doesn't appear to have posted here in recent years), I got a good idea as to what I need in my small house on Long Island, NY.
I'm inclined towards Mitsubishi, Fujitsu or possibly Daikin, using single-zone/ Hyper-heat units everywhere.

1) The dealers I've spoken to suggest mounting the bedroom head unit above the window: aesthetically that might look the best, but I'd be installing in a 13" vertical space which doesn't meet manufacturer guidelines which I think typically call for at least 5-6" down from the ceiling.
In addition, the curtains will be hung immediately below the unit, and jut out from the wall maybe 2-5 inches.
Should I mount the head on the wall instead?
On-ceiling would appear to be an option but it seems that would require a condensate pump which I'd prefer to avoid if possible.

2) It appears that Mitsu has gone with R-454b refrigerant where the others appear to use R-32. I've recently learned that Europe might be restricting R-454b due to presence of PFAS.
I'm a little concerned about investing in a new system that might use a refrigerant that isn't eventually widely adopted by the industry, would probably be good for the industry if they could commit one way or the other.

Any thoughts or additional info would be appreciated, thanks.
 
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Your oil burner is it a boiler or furnace? Either way the heat is so much hotter that a heat pump. Have two systems both two ton 3 head units. Need to look at you tube on cleaning the indoor units. Unit with a drape below it would have to remove the drape for cleaning the unit. New refrigerants out now the manufactures have picked the one they wanted to use and its anyones guess whats going to be the winner. For years it was R22 then R 410 and they were the ones that manufactures used. This EPA has rolled back air and water regulations so who knows what is going to happen. Company installing the equipment is more important than the brand. Your electric company might offer a energy audit that includes a blower door test and might offer rebates on equipment.
 
Your oil burner is it a boiler or furnace? Either way the heat is so much hotter that a heat pump. Have two systems both two ton 3 head units. Need to look at you tube on cleaning the indoor units. Unit with a drape below it would have to remove the drape for cleaning the unit. New refrigerants out now the manufactures have picked the one they wanted to use and its anyones guess whats going to be the winner. For years it was R22 then R 410 and they were the ones that manufactures used. This EPA has rolled back air and water regulations so who knows what is going to happen. Company installing the equipment is more important than the brand. Your electric company might offer a energy audit that includes a blower door test and might offer rebates on equipment.
Thanks for the reply, currently I have oil and hydronic baseboard, the heat load of the house is ~2 tons and yes, I'd be hoping to take advantage of any available rebates.
I was directed to someone for an audit, but they said that I would be obligated to have them do any related work and they seemed kinda pushy so I held off.

I spoke with someone yesterday who recommended following manufacturers recommendations as far as ceiling clearance, so it sounds like leaving 1.5" clearance above a head unit isn't going to work, and as you mentioned, cleaning would be a little more involved.
 
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Thanks for the reply, currently I have oil and hydronic baseboard, the heat load of the house is ~2 tons and yes, I'd be hoping to take advantage of any available rebates.
I was directed to someone for an audit, but they said that I would be obligated to have them do any related work and they seemed kinda pushy so I held off.

I spoke with someone yesterday who recommended following manufacturers recommendations as far as ceiling clearance, so it sounds like leaving 1.5" clearance above a head unit isn't going to work, and as you mentioned, cleaning would be a little more involved.
Heat load is 24,000 btu's? Heat spec probably 27,000 for 2 ton unit. Have the paperwork from when to burner was last tuned up with a burner analyzer. Like a pic of it and the size of nozzle. It stamped on the wrench flat.
 
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Heat load is 24,000 btu's? Heat spec probably 27,000 for 2 ton unit. Have the paperwork from when to burner was last tuned up with a burner analyzer. Like a pic of it and the size of nozzle. It stamped on the wrench flat.
Unfortunately the only info I can report is that the system was operating at 80% efficiency, which I'm sure doesn't help you.
Just wondering, why do you ask?
 
Unfortunately the only info I can report is that the system was operating at 80% efficiency, which I'm sure doesn't help you.
Just wondering, why do you ask?
% of the efficiency doesn't mean much with out the other readings. 80% is normal for a oil boiler. Is there a nozzle that happens to be lying around? Nozzles are size by supply pressure @ 100 lbs. The burner can push 150lbs most are set up at 120-150 lbs. Are you using a hvac company or oil provider? Boiler for hot water?
 
I have boiler for baseboard heat, hybrid water heater for hot water.
I have a contract with Petro , my oil company, and I checked their report from last years service which isn't very technical.
I'm still wondering why you ask though, is it because of the nature of the (light-weight) heat as you mentioned in your 1st post? Did you go over to heat pumps and regret it?
My boiler is very old, needs to run all summer to maintain the seals and like all oil-fired boilers is grossly oversized for my house, which is why I'm looking to change. What's the smallest oil-fired boiler that you know of? I know a boiler guy and he mentions Peerless, I had looked at EK in the past but it was suggested that they're still oversized, and you're mainly paying for the heat-purging ability which you can now do with most boilers apparently.
Gas is less oversized but it's not available here unfortunately.
 
I have boiler for baseboard heat, hybrid water heater for hot water.
I have a contract with Petro , my oil company, and I checked their report from last years service which isn't very technical.
I'm still wondering why you ask though, is it because of the nature of the (light-weight) heat as you mentioned in your 1st post? Did you go over to heat pumps and regret it?
My boiler is very old, needs to run all summer to maintain the seals and like all oil-fired boilers is grossly oversized for my house, which is why I'm looking to change. What's the smallest oil-fired boiler that you know of? I know a boiler guy and he mentions Peerless, I had looked at EK in the past but it was suggested that they're still oversized, and you're mainly paying for the heat-purging ability which you can now do with most boilers apparently.
Gas is less oversized but it's not available here unfortunately.
Minis cleaning the indoor units is a pain. Look at you tube. Parts aren't normally stocked and have to be ordered next day or two day shipping. With burner info like the size of nozzle, the pressure that its running, flue temp ,Co and O2. Tells how the burner is burning, btu's input, flue temp smoke test ,Co and O2. With readings from other years can see if there something changing.
www.chiltrix.com makes a heatpump chiller and heater. There others brands were that make package unit send heated or cooled water out to indoor units. New Yorker boiler burns 80k .6 gph
 
Honestly, one concern I had was with maintenance: presently, I don't have any, I have the oil guy come once a year for a tune up and that's taken care of me for the last 13 years.
And I wasn't looking forward to having to 'properly maintain' a mini-split system with 3 heads.

I'll look into the Chiltrix, thanks. Is the maintenance simpler?

One benefit of heat pumps was that I don't have to hassle with window AC units anymore, but I have to say that the Midea 12K inverter unit I bought last year makes the process much easier with the bracket that they provide.

It sounds like you went from oil to heat pump: if so, would you think about going back when the heat pumps are ready for replacement?

Lastly: is the New Yorker a high quality boiler? It's sized about 3x what I need but not going to do much better I don't think. Is there a recommended burner, and would I need a chimney liner (house built ~1987)? Lastly: are all today's boilers (including this) now cold-start and can use heat-purging controls, and can I turn them off for the summer (where my current boiler needs to run for the sake of the seals I'm told)?

Edit: added some images... (PS: can anyone determine what the output of my Utica roughly is?)
 

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Minis cleaning the indoor units is a pain. Look at you tube. Parts aren't normally stocked and have to be ordered next day or two day shipping. With burner info like the size of nozzle, the pressure that its running, flue temp ,Co and O2. Tells how the burner is burning, btu's input, flue temp smoke test ,Co and O2. With readings from other years can see if there something changing.
www.chiltrix.com makes a heatpump chiller and heater. There others brands were that make package unit send heated or cooled water out to indoor units. New Yorker boiler burns 80k .6 gph
To be clear, you're referring to the stuff a consumer would do: replacing or cleaning filters is nothing, but getting at the blower wheel and the coils to spray cleaner on them seemed like it could get annoying.
Not to mention the possibility of mold, and water that hasn't drained properly, correct?
 
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