3" ABS Pipe Repair Options

Users who are viewing this thread

clw143

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Louisiana
I replaced a section of 3" ABS with two PVC 3x2 wye's under my slab. The side of the pipe closest to the outside of the house actually has much of an old hub and ABS encased in the footer of the house. While I was digging this up near the footer I found the dirt to be very slightly moist vs the extremely dry clay everywhere else. After my modifications were complete with everything still dug out I found water leaking out of the meeting point of the bottom of the ABS and the concrete footer. Looking with an inspection camera, there is a section of 3" ABS (encased in concrete) right past the hub that is cracked. It's about 14" from the outside and a really hard reach of 8" from the inside. What is the best way to approach this?

I have considered trying to dry it out and drilling some holes in the slab and fill around the pipe with closed cell expanding foam, or maybe cutting my new section out hoping my hand can reach it (20% chance) and using epoxy to fill the crack, or maybe contract someone to line that section of pipe with epoxy (although not sure if being that close to a wye is great as it is pretty close). Any thought or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG20250105160807.jpg
    IMG20250105160807.jpg
    58.1 KB · Views: 45

Breplum

Licensed plumbing contractor
Messages
2,411
Reaction score
1,029
Points
113
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I've had relative good luck layering on ABS cement when I can get the joint dry.
When I say layering, I am talking about min. 20 coats. Relatively allowing drying between layers.
I personally have a bad joint on a fitting that I can only reach with full arm up to my shoulder reaching through a (removed 6 x 14) vent opening. That repair has lasted years, but I can see it if it ever fails.
Unfortunately, there is likely constant stress on your pipe.

Since you don't really need to worry about such a small sewer leak if it just goes into the ground, try layering, OR epoxy that will stick to plastic according to mfr.
Concrete is never allowed by code to have contact with plumbing pipes for this very reason. It is supposed to be isolated via foam sheets or equal.
 
Last edited:

Fitter30

Well-Known Member
Messages
5,192
Reaction score
1,031
Points
113
Location
Peace valley missouri
Plumbers epoxy its like a putty. Sets up in hour. If the pipe is encased in concrete could the bottom be surround by rock? Unless the pipe crack could be cleaned don't think it could be 100% water tight. Sewer pipe lining company? Electric jack hammer?
 
Last edited:

DJ Metal

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Staten Island, New York City
I would try what the others have suggested, but would also try this,

If you can cut a piece of ABS that is a little longer and wider than the crack, like a patch and get it onto the crack it would help.
Sand or file all edges of your patch down as thin as possible first, just so that it would barely be a very slight hump inside the pipe and nothing will hang up on it once it's dried into place.

Smother the bottom of the patch with a big blob of ABS cement or a marine epoxy or any waterproof adhesive and press it over the crack that has already been filled with cement.

If you use an epoxy or cement that heats up the ABS, it would certainly stick and would cover any cement or glue or adhesive and may last longer than just glue or cement.

Good Luck!
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks