3/4" threaded = brass or copper

[ndjur]

I'm installing a shower valve and a diverter - Hansgrohe iBox + Hansgrohe Quattro diverter. Both of those have 3/4" female threaded inputs/outputs. My supply lines are 1/2" so I need seven 3/4" threaded male to 1/2" sweat adapters.
What do you guys usually do - use copper adapters to simplify soldering but join dissimilar material threads or use brass adapters to thread brass into brass?

 

[Terry]

On the I-Box I use 3/4" male x 1/2" sweat.
It's kind of an odd fitting, but saves a joint.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ndjur]

Thanks a lot Terry,

If I see correctly, the adapter is copper, not brass.
Not all plumbing stores here have these adapters in copper (brass only), but Home Depot does. I see many people in this forum avoid buying any threaded fittings from big box stores, commenting that often the threads were made using either dull or worse - wrong spec. tool. What would be your take on this?
Also, I see you put cold water 90 degree elbow very close to the iBox. How did you prevent iBox from being damaged during the soldering. They say no soldering should be done closet to 4" from the valve.
Thanks again.

 

[Terry]

Those are copper. That's the kind of stuff I can get at a supplier.
Not within 4"? I guess I'm just that good.

 

[ndjur]

I guess for you it is also not very important where was the fitting made and/or sold - everything works. Lucky.
Cheers.

 

[hj]

copper or brass its all the same.

 

[ndjur]

Thanks a lot HJ.
HomeDepot or plumbing store - is it also all the same?

 

[Terry]

There are only a few companies that sell fittings. It won't matter on them.

 

[Jadnashua]

YOu might want to solder the threaded coupling onto a pipe stub, then screw it into the valve casing after. Then, if you need to solder closer than that 4" or so to complete the install, you can wrap a wet rag around the pipe to limit the temperature rise of the pipe close to the box.

 

[hj]

I might just solder the male adapters into the valve body to eliminate any chances of having a bad/leaking thread.

 

[PlumbSolve]

In S Africa we would use brass connections with a ferrule for this kind of work.If there was a leak you could then just loosen the whole lot in order to fix as opposed to cutting pipework out.
Not that familier with ibox but would it not be better to do primary use to shower mixer as opposed to the spout. In other words if you open the mixer here does the water not go to the spout first ?The plumbing is weird in the States. All our stuff is chased in walls.
How do you go about waterproofing that room.?

 

[ndjur]

Thank you all for your help.
I ended up using copper fittings, teflon tape and "blue magic" thread sealer. I soldered 6" copper pipe to each adapter before threading them into the valves so I stay outside of 4" 'no solder' zone (sorry Terry, I'm not that good).
Pressure test done - all good. Shark byte fittings are really great for this kind of temporary job.

 

[CountryBumkin]

The plumbing is weird in the States. All our stuff is chased in walls.
How do you go about waterproofing that room.?

This is a link to a really good forum on "tiling/shower construction" http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1
If you are interested in how, in the USA, we waterproof (shower/tub enclosures) read through the "Stickys" or the Posts. Great source of information.

 

[PlumbSolve]

This is a link to a really good forum on "tiling/shower construction" http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1
If you are interested in how, in the USA, we waterproof (shower/tub enclosures) read through the "Stickys" or the Posts. Great source of information.

Thankyou