2nd Floor Shower Drain & Vent Question

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Michael Schrenk

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I'm converting my 36 x 48 fiberglass stall shower in to a tiled 36 x 66 shower with a linear drain. When I opened up the floor to reveal the mechanicals I ran in to a shower drain venting issue. My preferred drain location is to the right but the existing drain and vent location are closer to the left - More than 60" away from the P-trap. I know you can't vent horizontal until above the flood rim but if I could it would have been much easier. I wanted to know if the mocked up option I show is okay with the 2" P-trap into a 90 in to a Santee to then split to allow for a 1-1/2" vent in the wall and then the waste to flow (elevated to run over the HVAC vents near the supply lines) back to the original waste line through the 2x6 wall in the original location. Note - There's another rafter just behind the one in view near my green circle that is under the wall. You can see it in the photo. With this option I would need to cut (Hack) both of them up quite a bit to fit the 2" fittings as there is not enough room between them.

My other option is to place the drain at the opposite end after relocating the supply lines (as shown by the red and blue lines) and mimic the original drain/vent setup by rotating the P-trap and line at the Santee so it runs towards the drain location. I'll need to make a hole through the joist but it will be very close to the 2x6 structural wall which should minimize the weakening of that joist. There are two 3" waste lines right under this drain location but I think there will be enough room to fit the P-trap above them - I'm hoping. My only issue with this option is the toilet is at this end which forces me to have the glass door at the opposite end from the shower fixtures. I wanted to be able to open the door, turn the shower on and let the water/tile heat up without having to get in to the shower, which is what the 1st option would allow.

My plan was to reroute the supply lines as shown regardless as they run up in the photo to supply the old shower lines and then continue under the hallway on the other side of the wall turn and come back down as seen in the photos to supply the fixture in the master bath and the other bath with double vanities. I will be tapping off of them to a 3/4" PEX Copper Manifold to supply 1/2" PEX to the main shower head and rain shower head - both using separate mixer valves. I'm not concerned about routing those as they have the wonderful benefit of water pressure so I have more options. The drains and vents are much more challenging so I'm starting with them first and I'll run the supply next.

Your input is greatly appreciated.
 

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Cwhyu2

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CANNOT install TEE on its side must be roughed in like the existing shower drain and vent.
 

Michael Schrenk

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I think I figured out how to keep the drain at the preferred location on the right. I can run the drain straight towards the existing drain (at an angle) and connect it to the short run of 2" just after the existing P-trap (Green line in attached photo) . I can reuse everything else but I'll need to lower everything that is left an inch to account for the 4 foot run from this location but it gets me code compliant and my preferred drain location. I originally was thinking I would run the drain line parallel to the rear wall but closer to the front edge which would add up to over 5 feet, the maximum run prior to a vent (Pink line in attached photo) . Shortest distance between two points is a straight line and it worked out at just under 5 feet!

I still could use my other option with the drain on the left but I lose door access to the shower valves.

I didn't think the Santee on its side was a good idea so thanks for confirming it.
 

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