1” or 1.5” water service. Main 125’ from house

[gerard143]

Looking to build eventually on my vacant lot. Don’t have specifics yet on house but town is replacing mains as we speak. It’s cheaper to get service and curb box installed now vs later.

They said $1640 for 1”. $3200 for 1.5”.

The main is about 125’ from where it would likely enter home. Curb box would sit at around the 60’ mark of that distance. No elevation change from main to home.
Town says:
“The water pressure at the street is 94psi.
The approximate pressure loss over 100 feet of PVC water line is:
1” PVC 3.5psi
1-1/2” PVC 0.5psi”

I’ll need a pressure reducing valve on my end. I will likely have 3 baths in home. Doubt more than 2 would ever be used at same time. Typical setup for the rest of home, kitchen sink, maybe 3 hose bibs (probably never run them all at once), clothes washer, dishwasher, utility sink. Master shower id probably do a bit fancier with a maybe 3 selectable sprayer heads/water tiles. Was thinking about doing a pressure wash built in spray wand like car wash style in a garage bay as well. Perhaps irrigation but it wouldn’t need to run often in my area. 1 acre lot.

Would 1” be ok for this or do I need 1.5” service.

If I did 1” I could upsize my portion of it to the house to 1.5” or whatever if it helps.

I just want to make sure not going with 1.5”
Isn’t going to be a mistake.

I have to pull the trigger asap if I want this done before main replacement is done. If money was no object I’d just go 1.5”. But if 1” should be plenty fine I’ll do that.
Need advice.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Breplum]

Just to provide cushion, I'm going to use 3.5 bathroom house;
45 Fixture Units (f.u.) (less hose bibbs = 40.5 f.u.)



UPC Table 6-5 Total Length: 150' Pressure over 60 psi

3/4" = 17 Fixt. Units 1" = 35 Fixt. Units 1 1/4" = 39 Fixt. Units, all with 5/8" meter (aka 3/4")
So I recommend 1-1/4" pipe. It won't do any much help to go higher.
AND for your prv, don't go cheap, use a Watts U5B or equal for higher flow or use a double union Zurn 70XL and upsize that to 1.5" with bushings for 1.25" to handle the higher flow.
Be absolutely sure they use a tracer wire for the PVC AND I really recommend using PVC Sch 80 vs 40
Better yet, hire a plumbing contractor that will use fusion joints for PE. So much more durable and long lasting. Maybe even less than Sch 80 PVC.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

They said $1640 for 1”. $3200 for 1.5”.

Are you talking about the charge for a meter or for piping to the meter?

Did the town mention PVC? I would have expected them to run polyethylene of some sort.

 

[gerard143]

So I recommend 1-1/4" pipe. It won't do any much help to go higher.

Oddly the town doesn’t do 1 1/4” service. After 1” it jumps to 1.5”

They said no issues getting a 1” meter for 1” service and I can upsize to 1.5” on my side.

 

[gerard143]

Are you talking about the charge for a meter or for piping to the meter?

Did the town mention PVC? I would have expected them to run polyethylene of some sort.

For the prices quoted it includes tapping the main, boring under road, running line, installing curb box and providing meter and installing meter once my side is ready for meter.

I am not sure what they are running for the line. The letter notes estimated psi loss over 100’ of pvc and says must user K copper from curb box to meter. Doesn’t specifically say for sure what material type their line is. I assume it’s pvc. I can ask.

 

[Breplum]

PVC long term is less robust compared to PE. Always should have tracer wire when non metal piping is placed.

 

[gerard143]

PVC long term is less robust compared to PE. Always should have tracer wire when non metal piping is placed.

I sent a message to the clerk to find out what material they are using and if a tracer is ran. I am going to do 1” service and upsize to 1.5” on my end. They charge base water fee per quarter. 1.5” is $111 more per quarter. So I save $450 a year going with 1”. So I guess that plays a role too in my decision. Hopefully I never regret not going with 1.5”. She said practically none of the homes in county are 1.5”, even the large (mansions) homes. A large amount of new homes are on 3/4” she said. I was surprised.

I looked at the Watts and Zurn PRV. Do you prefer one over the other?

Looks like if I want to run plastic from meter they require a meter pit. If I run K copper meter can be inside home. They sent me reference drawings of requirements for either option. I attached images.

 

[Fitter30]

125' copper 1" 15 gpm max 10 lb pressure drop
Zurn 500CL 3 prv has a lower pressure drop
Prv installed in the house not in a pit

 

[Breplum]

what the heck is K5 copper for tubing? Doesn't exist in plumbing world. maybe it is normal type "K" copper.
The 500CL I think is a bit of overkill for a three bathroom house (likely very expensive). The 600XL is "high-flow"
I am a huge proponent of double unions but Zurn doesn't make the 600 with D.U. hence, reasoning of upsizing a double union like NR3XL
or even DU on Watts 25AUB if upsized.
Really, your plumber should have a look-over of the specs (assuming you have a wise, older plumber on your team)

 

[gerard143]

Typo. K copper.

Don’t have a team yet. Haven’t began to official plan anything on home build yet. Happened to drive past my lot and see the town was digging. Looked into it and read they were replacing mains and if you want service now’s the time to save $. So I said well, guess I’ll just look into what size line to run for what I might build someday. I’m sure costs will only go up for service. So the hell with it I’ll do it now.

 

[John Gayewski]

Go 1.5". You might be thankful later. I do think you should be able to find a way to cheapen that up a bit though.

 

[gerard143]

The town replied that the service is copper line.

 

[Reach4]

Looks like if I want to run plastic from meter they require a meter pit. If I run K copper meter can be inside home.

But there is no home yet.

Would they just cap the pipe after the curb stop for now, or would they want to connect to at least meter mount?

I see the drawing of the pit calls for polybutylene pipe (PB). PB has been discredited, and high density polyethylene (possibly PEX -- the P stands for polyethylene) would be used if using plastic.

 

[gerard143]

They say no issues with my side of service not being there yet. Assume they just cap.

Thanks for the info on PB. I’ll note it down.