1/4 turn twist not doable on final PVC joint--best solution?

[NSB00]

I am rerouting some vent pipe due to remodeling. The original vent pipe is galvanized steel and the replacement section is PVC. I rebuilt the vent pipe path upward from the laundry steel vent pipe in the basement and downward from the steel vent stub (that goes up through the roof) in the first floor ceiling--using banded couplings at both points to join steel to PVC.

Anyway, all of this comes together in one wall that will require about 6 PVC fittings. Not yet assembled.

Normally I join each pipe & fitting with primer & cement and press together with a 1/4 turn twist.

Problem: I won't be able to twist the final joint. I'll just have to slather on the cement and push pipe and fitting straight in together. (My understanding has been that the twist helps ensure a leakproof joint by spreading the cement over any unseen cement voids.)

Is that just the way it works out sometimes? Or is there a better way to handle this?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

Problem: I won't be able to twist the final joint. I'll just have to slather on the cement and push pipe and fitting straight in together. (My understanding has been that the twist helps ensure a leakproof joint by spreading the cement over any unseen cement voids.)

If you slather, there will be no void.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

The more cement you use, the more solvent there is to evaporate before the joint becomes 'locked' in place, so take that into consideration - you'll likely need to hold things together, especially if it's a larger pipe diameter, longer before it won't creep apart.

 

[Flapper]

You do not have to twist the joint; it helps but it will work without it. It is not uncommon to not be able to twist a joint; I had some myself; you are unlikely to have any issues. Just make sure the pipe and fitting is coated well all around.

 

[NSB00]

Thanks all for the inputs.

So I went ahead and planned to do the final joint this way. The trouble was in selecting a final joint where there would be sufficient pipe flex to get the daubers in there to apply primer & cement to both pipe and fitting with minimum interference.

In the end, the best option was to loosen a banded coupling at the top end of the short final segment and pivot that segment about 45 degrees temporarily to get sufficient clearance between pipe & fitting. With that easy access for the daubers, I quickly applied primer and plenty of cement. I pivoted segment back into position, pushing together the pipe and fitting--and held the two parts tight together for over a minute. Then retightened the banded coupling.

Worked out great.

 

[FullySprinklered]

The tee is not properly oriented. Oops, it's a vent. Never mind.