1 1/4"Copper to 5800 SXT 1" Connection

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Offguard-2

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My house has an external copper loop that was installed by the plumber so we could add a WS at a later date. The copper loop (water line) is 1 1/4".

I'm looking to connect the 1 1/4" copper to the 1" adapter on the valve. What is the best way to achieve this connection?

Other information:
3.5 bathrooms, 1 outside shower; 4 family members
City Water
Hardness = 15 grains per gallon / 250 ppm
Chloramines = 2.36 mg/L
 

Breplum

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A good plumber might use ProPress fittings to avoid flux yuckiness and clean joints with no heating.
Simple fittings like 1.25" x 1" bell reducer and then a 1" Male adapter.
We've never been involved with WSs, maybe unions, isolation valves ?
 

Reach4

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How do you know the softener loop is 1-1/4 and the 5800 is a 1 inch MIP/FTP connector? I don't know if you are used to nominal sizing.
Is the 1 inch MIP out the back of the softener straight, or right angle?

Does a push-on connection to the softener loop appeal to you?
 

Offguard-2

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The main water line has a valve with 1 1/4”. Yes, I’d be okay with a push connector. I can’t find one that I’d need. What do you recommend?
 

Reach4

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I am thinking of a pretty not-elegant setup.

SharkBite UXL113532F or UXL113532M onto the cut pipe ends. Then a reducer. Then a stainless steel corrugated connector line.

What I really don't like is that the stuff sticking out the back of the valve will be keeping the tank farther from the wall. I don't want a sharp bend in the flex connector. Something with a right angle adapter at the valve might be better, even if there is an extra piece. And I am seeing lots of pieces.

Soldering would be better.

How about PEX? That might be good. You can get a Sharkbite that is 1-1/4 on one end, and takes 1 inch pex on the other.
 

Offguard-2

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I am thinking of a pretty not-elegant setup.

SharkBite UXL113532F or UXL113532M onto the cut pipe ends. Then a reducer. Then a stainless steel corrugated connector line.

What I really don't like is that the stuff sticking out the back of the valve will be keeping the tank farther from the wall. I don't want a sharp bend in the flex connector. Something with a right angle adapter at the valve might be better, even if there is an extra piece. And I am seeing lots of pieces.

Soldering would be better.

How about PEX? That might be good. You can get a Sharkbite that is 1-1/4 on one end, and takes 1 inch pex on the other.
Thank you for the solution. What do you think about this corrugated line with a shark bite? The reducer would be in the connector.


Unfortunately, I don’t have pex or soldering skills. Not sure I’d be willing to learn for a small project like this.
 

Reach4

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Nice. I was searching for something like that, and failed to find.

After you saw or use a pipe cutter on the 1.25 inch pipe, dress the end. Sharkbite sells a tool for that, but I think you could use sandpaper as an alternative.
Do not use PTFE tape on things that use a seal as that corrugated connector does.. Be very careful to not cross thread the plastic threads. I like to turn the nut CCW a time or two and note where you feel the click of the thread dropping. Then right after such a click, I turn the nut CW.

Some silicon grease (not glue) is nice on the seal and threads for lube. That is not the common thing, I don't think, but it is not uncommon either.

Maybe place the softener display at right angles to the wall if you want to be able to put the tank close to the wall.
 
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