1-1/2 Kitchen Drain Connection?

[Mav]

Trying to replace a flexible connection with a solid plastic pipe. Can anyone please guide what is the easiest option to connect highlighted area?

It is not straight and is bit slanted, should I use like a 45 degree or something? Thanks for the help.

 

[GReynolds929]

Well for starters that is a S trap and a flexible tailpiece, both are not good. Need to come up to the back of the cabinet with a santee, an AAV, then P trap to the sink tailpiece.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mav]

Well for starters that is a S trap and a flexible tailpiece, both are not good. Need to come up to the back of the cabinet with a santee, an AAV, then P trap to the sink tailpiece.

Thx, is there a simple option instead of redoing? Like connecting 1-1/2 tail pipe direct and just bypassing flexible piece?

 

[Reach4]

Probably, but

1. what pipe is going into the floor? 1.5 inch OD or 1.90 inch OD?
2. How much vertical distance do you have from the bottom of that space up to the bottom of the tailpiece (the piece at the bottom of the basket)?

 

[Mav]

Probably, but what is going into the floor? 1.5 inch OD or 1.90 inch OD?

I believe floor has 2 inch one, so 1.5 inch tail piece would go into the floor without any issue. Current flex one is 1.5 inch and has been running fine. Thx

 

[Reach4]

2 inch OD is not a thing AFAIK. Nominal 2 inch would be 2.375 inch OD.

If there is 1.90 OD pipe to glue onto, that could make things easier. But if it is 1.5 inch, there is probably a way to make that work too.

How much vertical distance do you have from the bottom of that space up to the bottom of the tailpiece (the piece at the bottom of the basket)?

 

[Mav]

Probably, but

1. what pipe is going into the floor? 1.5 inch OD or 1.90 inch OD?
2. How much vertical distance do you have from the bottom of that space up to the bottom of the tailpiece (the piece at the bottom of the basket)?

Thx 1- 1.5 inch is going into the floor. 2- It is ~11 inches.

 

[Reach4]

Thx 1- 1.5 inch is going into the floor. 2- It is ~11 inches.

Not the answers I was hoping for.

Do you have access from below -- basement or crawl space?

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replace-chrome-s-trap-with-small-clearance.82578/ has a start... but that double-offset piece comes 12 inch long. However you can cut a piece out of that, and re-connect that with a slip joint coupling.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PLUMBFLEX-1-1-2-in-x-3-in-Brass-Slip-Joint-Coupling-for-Tubular-Drain-Applications-22GA-Chrome-Plated-51118/312671495

The brass one would be stronger than the plastic.

 

[Reach4]

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White 45° Plastic Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Elbow Pipe HDC9665 - The Home Depot

1-1/2 in. Plastic 45° Slip Joint Elbow can be used to repair sink trap tubing. The elbow has a maximum working pressure of 15 psi. The elbow includes two slip joint connections on either side. Oatey products

www.homedepot.com

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dearborn-Brass-1-1-2-in-45-Slip-Joint-Elbow-HDC9684/315714282

For the 45s, the price adder for brass is more.

 

[wwhitney]

Thx 1- 1.5 inch is going into the floor.

In your picture, there's a blue arrow, and near the arrow head near the bottom of the picture is a slip joint nut. Reach4's question is about what pipe is below that slip joint nut. It will either be nominal 1.5" tubular (actual OD 1.5"), nominal 1.5" Schedule 40 (actual OD 1.90"), or nominal 2" Schedule 40 (actual OD 2.375").

What you need to do is remove everything between the slip joint nuts at the top and bottom of the picture, and replace that with a single P-trap with horizontal outlet, an AAV connected to the top of that horizontal pipe (called the trap arm), and a fitting to turn down into the floor. A san-tee would be a tee where the trap arm comes in horizontally, an AAV can be connected to the top, and the drainage comes out the bottom, but that is not the only option.

Your picture clearly shows the tail-piece connected via the slip joint nut at the top, so when rebuilding it is clear that you will start with a slip-joint p-trap at the top. The nature of the pipe at the bottom will determine how you connect your new work to the existing pipe exiting out the bottom of the cabinet.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mav]

Thx @Reach4 and @wwhitney for your help. It is going into 1-1/2" schedule 40 ABS.

What I was thinking was to either use:

1-double-offset piece as @Reach4 mentioned earlier. OR

2-Arrow head for the bottom of the picture, install a 45 slip join and just connect the tail piece into existing trap.

Is slight kink in the pipe for going into the floor okay or will be a problem? Thx for the feedback.

 

[Reach4]

You will need a sanitary tee. The reason for the 45s for the jog is to give enough space for the P-trap and trap arm. The trap will be folded back on itself. The AAV will be above the top port of the sanitary tee, and will be at least 4 inches above the trap arm.

So I am not sure what you call a kink. The jog is OK.

The trap arm should be at least 1.5 inches long. Trap arm is the horizontal part of the p-trap downstream of the U. Buy a plastic p-trap to help model this.

 

[wwhitney]

The reason for the 45s for the jog is to give enough space for the P-trap and trap arm.

Not sure they will be required if the trap bend is pointed away from the floor exit.

It is going into 1-1/2" schedule 40 ABS

OK, best solution if possible:

(1) Cut off the trap adapter on the end of the ABS sticking out of the floor, glue on a coupling and riser (vertical 1-1/2" ABS)
(2) Add a san-tee with side inlet at the correct elevation and pointed just to the side of the sink tailpiece (either side)
(3) Off the top of the san-tee, a short riser then an AAV. I think the AAVs are available threaded (male?), so the top of the riser gets the corresponding fitting (female adapter?) AAVs need to be at least 4" above the trap arm, IIRC.
(4) The above is all Schedule 40. Now in the side inlet of the san-tee, a spigot end trap adapter that glues directly into the hub.
(5) A tubular trap of your choosing, which connects the tailpiece to a u-bend to a trap arm that slides into the trap adapter. To make it fit the u-bend will point away from the trap adapter, and then the trap arm will double back towards the trap adapter. Tubular pipe can just be cut to length as required (deburr the ends as usual).

Possible difficulties with the above:

(1) If the Schedule 40 below the cabinet floor doesn't extend up high enough, it might be hard to cut off the trap adapter and glue on a coupling. Probably still possible with an internal pipe saw and sliding a coupling down through the hole in the cabinet of the cabinet, which could be enlarged slightly if necessary. As a last resort, you could try to do steps (1) through (4) above in tubular rather than Schedule 40.
(2) In step 5, you might still not have enough horizontal distance between where the tubular trap turns horizontal and your trap adapter. In which you can can add the offset via a pair of 45s to the vertical drain, as Reach4 suggested.

Oh, and in case it wasn't clear, the problem with an S-trap is that they may siphon. The AAV allows air in when required to prevent that from happening.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mav]

Thx @Reach4 and @wwhitney for your help