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Not sure why pics aren’t loading. Will try again. Hard to describe with just words....The problem is the disposal is now in the center of the sink exactly where the pipe comes out, so there isn’t enough room to come out far with anything- and the trap is to the right side of the disposal...

Hi all, Redoing the kitchen and getting close to the end. The original sink base had a double sink and a disposal and looked like the attached pic - with one drain from the disposal side, s connection for sn under cabinet vent, and one drain to the other sink bowl. We changed it to a single...

Ok. If enough of you who do this for a living feel like it is ok, then I’ll stop worrying. Thanks. I really hate to second guess anyone’s work, I just wasnt expecting to see it that way - seemed like there would be a better way to do it. But I won’t call him back or anything. Thanks!

Here is a closer pic. He also said I could leave the wall open but I feel better at least screwing some sheetrock up behind it. Again, he is the pro, I just wanted some assurance from some others that this is ok. Thanks!

Hi all, I had the gas stub out moved behind my oven so it would sit flush against the wall. I like to do a lot of stuff myself, but not gas. I had a licensed plumber come out so it would be done right . I have no reason to question it other than it looks weird to have it pushed up against the...

HI all, Been in the house for 20 years. It was built new. While I do think there is a vent stack for the master bath, the builder installed AAVs at every bathroom sink in the house. The master bath has 2 different vanities, each with a sink, a toilet, and a shower. It's been fine for years...

Yeah - best to leave it alone I think. Thanks for all the help!! It’s really appreciated!

So I don't think that switch can be replaced. It's definitely factory and the fact that I can't find replacement switches might mean it's brazed on there. I think your idea about the Tee might work, just not sure which switch is appropriate. The other thought I had was...why are we bypassing...

Here is the best pic I can get from the top. I haven't figured out how I'd even get in there yet and don't want to start taking things apart without any more reason yet. Refrigerant is Puron....I may have to let this end here. I was hoping t be able to change out that switch. I feel like it...

I took a good look at what is in the unit. It doesn't look like there is wiring at all for a Compressor Time Delay or anything that looks like that, but there is definitely wiring for the Low and high pressure switches. From the way it looks, originally Y1 went to the LPS on Yellow/pink wire...

Ok - I’ll check and see what they are like if I can get to them. But I don’t want to mess with refrigerant or anything.

Well I appreciate you expertise. Everything is in there I think. They seem to have just cut the wire. I don’t remember which was bad but wonder if I could replace it. Is it just wires or does it tie into the refrigerant line?

So I tried it It’s working as it should. Y1 straight to contactor (no switches or anything in between), y2 to cs and back to contactor but on the opposite side of where Y1 is, and the common to the same side as y2. Compressor started in on stage 1. Black compressor wire read about 9.3 amps...

Ok - so I got brave…. I wired it the way I described. Y1 goes straight to right side of contactor. There are no pressure switches or delays. Common goes straight to left side. Y2 goes to cs and the red wire comes back to the same side as the common. Turned it on. Compressor pulled 9.5 amps...

One of the pressure switches went bad a few years back so they cut them out of the circuit. I don’t see a time delay - the y1 (former y2 when wired wrong) goes straight to the contactor. But it’s been wired so y2 was that wire that connected to the contactor and y1 was going to the cs. I...

Doesn’t the schematic show y2 connected to the common side (after it it goes through the cs) and y1 connected to the opposite side of the contactor? I feel like I should switch the y2 to the same side as the common side of the contactor. (On the 24v) this way when y1 kicks on it isn’t...

Ok...did some voltage testing...not sure what to make of this... When stage 1 is on and Y1 goes to the contactor and Y2 goes to the compressor solenoid, the compressor comes on BUT both Y1 and Y2 are showing 24V. When Stage 2 is on in the same setup up it is the same reading. When Stage 1 is...

Yes, cooling only. It’s a gas furnace for heat and a 2 stage compressor for cooling. Yes, it will display stage 1 or stage 2. Honeywell: Model# RTH9585WF

I just checked. Doesn’t seem to draw any more amps when stage 2 kicks in. So it seems like my choices are: 1. Put wiring back to originally how I found it. This means nothing running outside in stage 1 but blower motor running inside. 2. Leave it as is with it switched so the outside unit...

I noticed that in stage 1 the fan outside was not running. The blower inside was but the outside unit was not. It made me check out the schematic and it looked to me like the wires should be switched so I switched them. Now the outside unit does kick on in stage one but it doesn’t go...