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I just about cried upon learning about the cancer condition. Terry's posts have always been very courteous, friendly, and helpful.

UPDATE TO MY PREVIOUS POST: I removed and replaced the burner in my NG heater and the humming problem went away. The R&R process took me about half an hour. No special tools required.

I had the same problem. Plastic valve that would only dribble when I opened it. Poked a rod up the spout and it dribbled a bit more. Opened the T&P valve - no help. So I removed the plastic valve and in its place I installed a brass quarter-turn ball valve. Now when I open this new quarter-turn...

I never could understand why there are two drains into the wall (one from the dishwasher and one from the GD and sink) that feed into a single pipe. Can someone please 'splain it to me???

>>I'm wondering if there is a hot wire touching the copper somewhere in that house.<< C'mon. Think about it. If there were a hot wire touching the copper pipe it would blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker.

Opening a hot water tap to allow air to enter the heater tank when draining it, as Terry Love suggests, may or may not work. It certainly does NOT work with all systems (like my system, for instance) because the loops in the hot water piping allow water to be trapped. The best way to let air...

I too was worried about the drain valve on my new AO Smith 40-gallon heater. Wouldn't loosen! So after fretting about it for a year after I installed the heater I finally applied all the pressure that I could to the valve and it did come out. Be sure to replace that cheap, plastic, piddly-flow...

Similar problem here. In February 2020 I replaced my gas water heater with a new one. Also installed a new gas feed line and shutoff valve. Since then, whenever the burner turns on, the water heater hums (not too loudly) for about 5 seconds, then the hum tapers off. No idea what's causing it...

I removed my post because I think the problem has already been fixed.

Where can I get a tool that will fit into the hole shown in the copper plug above?

What bulb thing? I don't see any.

Just sayin'... When I recently replaced the expansion tank on my water heater, I used white teflon tape on the 3/4-inch male threads. The connection leaked, and tightening it at first slowed the leak but further tightening eventually caused it to leak more. So I removed the tape and slopped some...

Not sure what you mean. The heater has a metal strip that spirals down to the bottom, but does not have a horizontal piece that might prevent parts from being dropped in. I shoulda covered the top with a rag before working on the heater. :oops: I couldn't remove the dropped piece because the...

@MASTERPLUMB777 I agree. I'll just leave it there.

While I was installing a new water heater, by accident I dropped a one-inch length of 3/4-inch copper pipe down the vent in the center of the heater (tinkle-tinkle-tinkle- thunk :(). I shined it on and completed the installation without removing the pipe. Will this cause any problems down the...

>>...but it's going to be akin to taking your old beat up car to Earl Scheib<< Earl Scheib (from 1962): "We'll paint any car, any color, for only $29.95!!!" I didn't know the company was still around.

No other problems noted with the heater or its installation. Guess I'll just have to wonder about the hum for the next 12 years.

Ever since I replaced my old water heater with a new AO Smith 40-gallon gas heater something makes a strange hum right about 5 to 10 seconds after the burner ignites. The hum is around 256 Hertz and does not vary in pitch. It increases in volume for 1 to 2 seconds, then tapers off and is gone...

I have two 4-inch cleanouts both of which are capped with flush mount PVC caps. One of the caps has a slot in it that's about 1 to 2 inches long and 1/2 deep, the other has recessed hole that is about 1 or maybe 1.5 inch square. The caps are flush with the concrete that surrounds each. The caps...