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That’s what I was hoping, thanks all!

When I installed my irrigation backflow preventer (1" FEBCO 765), I added unions to make it easy to replace/remove. I have seen that some people entirely remove the backflow preventer during the winter to prevent any freezing - if I do that, is there any concern that regularly removing /...

This part of the line would be winterized and drained so it doesn’t need to be all the way down below the frost line

I am in the process of setting up an irrigation system and was planning to do the following coming out of the backflow preventer (Febco 765-1" PVB): 1" vertical copper pipe going into the ground ~12 inches deep + soldered copper elbow + ~6" of 1" copper pipe away from the house + female copper...

Thanks for pointing this out @Jeff H Young. A single kitchen sink above is the only other fixture, but in this case, I don't think that factors into this. It seems like this part of the code will be relevant: "The fixture drain for the standpipe serving an automatic clothes washer shall connect...

I would like to add a laundry utility sink to our basement (under the window in the picture) along with connections for a washer/dryer (to the left of the sink) and wanted to check on my plan here. The vertical stack that you see in the picture goes up to a kitchen sink. It wouldn't be easy to...

Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of the difference between full & standard port. I would probably lean towards compression or solder vs. Sharkbite. Maybe a slight preference for compression so I don't have to deal with the water in the pipes making the soldering harder. That Sioux City one...

Our main water valve is an old gate valve, which has been annoying to use when we need to shut off our main water supply. I'd like to replace it with a ball valve and was trying to decide which approach would be better: - Replace entirely (would need to get the water shut off at the street) -...

Thanks, I ended up pulling out the nails and replacing with SS pan head screws which fixed the creaking. The flange is pretty thin so I didn’t want to try countersinking. The nails came out way too easily, and the creak was coming from where the flange rubbed against the wood. It is very solid...

We put Quikrete mortar mix underneath it and ensured that the pan was level (see below picture). We tried to err on the side of drier like wet packed sand, so I'm hoping it wasn't too wet. I did not put anything underneath the floor first. At this point given that it's in there, would you...

Yesterday, I installed a fiberglass shower pan following the manufacturer's (Vigo) instructions which included laying mortar underneath, fastening the flange to the studs, and shimming between the flange and the stud if it is not square. After 24 hours, there is a very slight creaking when you...

Thanks for the tips here - will definitely make sure I'm measuring and gluing as I go and keeping the riser plumb & level. Thankfully it's a short section I can redo if things aren't lining up for me. It is a 2-inch P trap, it must just look different in the photo.

Following up with a few pictures - I cut off the copper pipe and added a shielded coupling. Dry fitting, it looks like it will work okay since I'm adding a 3/4" subfloor + a 1/2" wood underlayment. One question I have - as you can see from the second picture, when it's in position, the flat part...

Curious on this one, since I was thinking through this as well. What would prevent me from dry fitting to figure out the right rotation of the offset drain, and then cementing the bottom part of the drain to the tail piece in the right orientation before installing the pan + top of the drain...

Thanks all, getting the shower soon so will be able to see in practice how it all fits out. I hear the points on the custom shower, the reality is that for cost/simplicity reasons with the curved shower model, is that it is much easier to use the prefab (outside of this drain issue). Right now...

Thanks for the input. Does anyone have any thoughts on using an offset drain? Here are links to the shower & shower pan spec (pan measurements on page 5 of the 2nd PDF - Model VG06039)...

I need to move this shower drain over to the red circle to align with a prefab shower base. The exact center of where the drain needs to go is 1" off of the joist. At the wye in the bottom of the picture, there is ~3/4" between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the joist. My plan was to cut...