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Version 2.0 of this is now out... new website address for m-one too. follow the link below... https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/american-standard-push-pull-shower-valve.53413/page-2#post-626103

See this cross posting about replacement valve bodies that use the same old back manifold: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/american-standard-push-pull-shower-valve.53413/page-2#post-626103

Hi Kids, it's professor thermal expansion, (linearly) here to give you some more hints... So, after about one week of functioning valves, I succumbed to the dreaded no hot water issue.... This time I put my physics minor to use and thought long and hard. Actually, mostly, dropping F-bombs under...

If the springs weaken you end up with leaks and not pressure loss; so, this is the opposite, something is causing too much tension on the stems preventing them from tilting open enough to allow adequate water flow. Most likely the spring inside is bound up on the ridges of the valve body...

Super late reply, but here's what's wrong: 1. Check your seats inside the valve. You remove those with a 5/16 Allen key. A rebuild kit should have those. Maybe the gasket/o-ring broke? The spindle sits on those seats and that's how the water turns off. Sometimes the springs aren't sitting right...