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Sounds like your pressure switch stuck closed and the pump did not shut off. The pumptec showing an 'Underload' is usually a dry well condition but I would think a dead headed pump could also cause that.

The tank pressure should follow your gauge unless the pump quits and the tank empties; then it would read the 38psi you pressurized it at.

Could the gauge be just hanging at 52? When the gauge reads 52 have you checked the psi at the pressure tank, does it read ~52 also?

I've been in about the same situation and went with a storage tank system. Our well was only .5 gpm. We put in a 1500 gallon tank system. You might consider that you will have to maintain another pump system and that you will need a place to house the pump and tank(s) to keep them from freezing...

Sounds like a blockage somewhere in the pipe. I good first check would be the inlet baffle on the septic tank. There should be an access cover directly above it.

Could be you've pumped the water down to the pump intake level and the pump is only giving you what the recovery rate of the well is.

You could use a Franklin Pumptec or Pentek Pumpsaver or similar device to protect the pump. Either device will shut down the pump when it senses a dry well or other electrical condition problem. I've run a Franklin Pumptec for the past 10 years and other than an occasional false trip it has...

lol - jaybob, have you been working on this project for a year and a half now? :)

Leak in one of the drop pipes??

I'm doing about the same with a shallow jet pump. The pump sits 200' away from the creek and about 11' elevation from water level. It works fine for watering the garden but is a PITA to prime come spring. I would much prefer to have a submersible but the spring time flooding would probably take...

Happened upon this on google. A little light reading about corrosion: http://www.groundh2o.org/standards/article_510.pdf

You could meter the power source of the pump.. http://www.powermeterstore.com/

Belden makes a Cat5e wire that is 600V AWM-rated. I've been allowed to run that in the same conduit as line voltage in the past. Never over 3ft however. Running data wire parallel with line voltage for 30ft is not a good idea even if it is shielded. In situations like that I've run fiber optic...

It's only there for the user to monitor the pressure.

To calculate your total fixture wattage, you need to go by the mfg's max bulb wattage for that fixture. (i.e. I you are using 50watt bulbs but the fixture is rated for using 75 watt bulbs you need to use the 75watt figure to calculate with.) That said, I always try to stay within 80% or less of...

Shouldn't have. You couldn't get a seal using a female threaded adapter due to the threads on the faucet being straight and not tapered as asktom mentioned. The supply couplings (ells) use a flat washer that seals against the tip of the faucet pipe.

I purchased my supply couplings at Signature Hardware out of KY but there are other suppliers that specialize in clawfoot tub parts. Just go to 'signaturehardware dot com' and search on "supply couplings".

You can get special supply couplings that will take your 3/4 faucet ends down to a 1/2" IPS male connection so you can then use standard braided faucet supply lines. You can google "clawfoot tub supply couplings". (I'd post a link on where I purchased mine, but I don't think the forum allows?)...

You may have what is called a 'low pressure cut-off switch'. If so there is a little lever on the side of it. Pull up on that lever to the 'start' position and see if the pressure starts to go up. Once the pressure starts to go up to around 30 you can release the lever back to the 'Auto' position.

Not sure about that product; if it would work or not. I would probably call someone (plumber maybe) that had access to a commercial drain pipe auger. If that pipe is restricted, that is your problem. The french drains are just holding the water.