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Hello all, To keep a long story short, there is a bit of lead drain pipe that runs into the sewer lines for a second sink. It had been clogging with some frequency and I have tried to put a manual snake down but it can't get further than a few inches because the residual solder in the pipe...

thank you for all the responses. I am looking into adding cellulose insulation since some of the bays between joists have no insulation, for some reason, and there's a lot of wiring. I would prefer not to use blown fiberglass only because I don't feel like stirring it up and getting itchy when...

Thank you for the feedback. Just to clarify, do you mean sealing the holes from the ceiling due to plumbing and electrical lines or do you mean sealing where rafters and walls meet? I only ask because there are two vents at either end, so it would seem those need to be sealed too if the attic is...

Hello all of the plumbing world, I currently live in a ranch house in SE PA, outside Philadelphia, that has hydronic lines for a Burnham boiler as well as the hot and cold water lines that run to the master bedroom, washing machine, etc. running through the attic. To make things even more fun...

Hello, I recently resolved water backing up into the dishwasher by forming a high loop with the drainage tube. Now that that's solved, I am still having a problem with drainage from the kitchen sink. I have disassembled the trap (it's a grandfathered s trap since house is a ranch built in 1953)...

So I would use a 1.25" p trap (since I don't think I would be modifying the sink tailpipe) and then connect to a sanitary tee that has a 1.25" inlet and then 1.5" outlet to connect to the AAV and then 1.5" for the waste line? Do they even make a tee like that?

I measured it and it is 1.25 OD. AAV straight above is ok. I think the picture shared above would work, the problem is that if the tailpipe from the sink is 1.25, the p trap would be 1.25 and the downspout/floor pipe is 1.25, then it would seem I need something to fit 1.25. Not sure why all the...

So, floor replaced, faucet installed and ready to hook up and put in a new trap. Was an s trap and not sure whether to replace with new s trap or put in a p-trap and AAV (plumbers say the former is ok, but others say that code requires at least the p trap, if not also with AAV). The problem...

Hi, I tried editing my most recent post, but figured I would just resubmit so that it might attract attention. Once again, any insight is appreciated: So, floor replaced, faucet installed and ready to hook up and put in a new p-trap. The problem that I have is that the pipe running into the...

So, floor replaced, faucet installed and ready to hook up and put in a new p-trap. The problem that I have is that the pipe running into the floor is 1.25" and pretty much every AAV I have looked into (studor, oatey are the main brands that come up, I think there was another one too) are 1.5" at...

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I believe it's a shielded coupler. It was there when I got here. Just to clarify, would installing a p trap with an AAV and running it through the pre-existing waste line under the vanity be sufficient or would I need to reroute the waste line so that it is...

Doing my best to DIY. Recently had a plumber over to inspect a toilet flange and he noted that the s traps from the vanities removed have lead piping. He recommended to either chip out the lead pipes and tie in copper pipes to the main waste line or to install new p traps along the back wall...

Thanks for the information. I checked out the other threads on spacers. I think everything should line up but, if not, I guess a spacer should be fine.

Hello, I am trying to replace the tile, toilet and vanity in a bathroom. When I removed the toilet, I noticed that the flange was not as pristine as I had hoped. As the pictures show, the right side of the flange is a bit more rusted out, though the closet bolt washer was still secure enough...