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This ^^ I believe Franklin recommends the tank be charged to 70% of the system’s operating pressure. So if you set the sensor to 60 psi, you should air the tank up to 42 psi with the system drained.

Having installed a fair amount of both stainless and brass tank fittings, I would say the leak rate is roughly the same. But stainless is definitely a lot trickier to work with than brass. Like previous comments mentioned, make sure you use a good, thick Teflon tape (I usually use Millrose...

A lot of good info in this thread. To sum it up: 1) make sure there are no clogged filters in line to the house 2) with main valve to house closed, watch pressure gauge to make sure it stays constant — if pressure is dropping then there is a leak in the main line or in the drop pipe down the...

For the sake of simplicity I would probably just duplicate your current setup except replace the galvanized with threaded brass fittings. You can check your local plumbing codes to see if a dielectric union is required but you would probably be fine without one. Would also recommend replacing...

Does it look something like this? If so, that would be an old Red Jacket Watt Knot. Basically just an old school surge protector. No, you do not need it for your pump to run. Your motor almost certainly has a built in lightning arrestor but additional surge protection is never a bad idea.

Looks like they had some short galvanized nipples rolling around the back of the truck that they wanted to use up:D nothing wrong with the setup though. I would second the recommendation to use tape and dope if you opt to fix the leak(s) yourself.

Our company has installed hundreds of Franklin Subdrives over the years (my boss loves them:rolleyes:) and although we have some older units still running strong after 10-15 years, those seem to be the exception and not the norm. They seem to be too susceptible to lightning strikes/power surges...

I have installed a couple of these 2W Franklin VFD’s (not by choice) and noticed they all exhibited the exact behavior you are describing OP. I can only assume that they are designed to operate this way. I came upon this tidbit while flipping through the manual, might be worth a shot. Obviously...

https://www.rcworst.com/Flomatic-80E-Enviro-4032E-Check-Valve-1-1/4-p1777.html We use these (in brass) for all of our pumps on 1-2” drop pipe. Rated for 400 psi too so it can handle your 281 psi backpressure

New check valve on top is definitely a Bandaid fix but better than doing nothing. If I were you I would bite the bullet and pull the pump and slap a new check valve above the pump discharge before anymore permanent damage is done. As I’m sure you’re aware, the water draining back down the well...

I think this article might clear some things up for you https://franklinaid.com/1997/07/22/560/ A common question received on the Hotline is whether it is acceptable to break only one wire with a pressure switch, float switch or probe system? As a water system’s primary operating control...