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That’s good to know about the manual tool: I’m thinking for my use, it might do the trick... But I’m also told it does take quite a bit of force. I was looking at the M12 tool myself: I don’t have any pipes over 1” in my home: so the larger pro-press tools would certainly be overkill. There...

I’ve looked at the manual tool: but I have concerns that it wouldn’t give you the same joint as an electric tool? I’ve been looking on EBay for refurbed/used models to see if I can get the pricing lower. I figure if they last any length of time in storage, it might pay itself off come time to...

I’ve soldered a few joints over the years: but I definitely don’t have a lot of confidence in my technique: knock on wood, nothing has leaked yet, but I end up with messy joints. I use a MAP torch for anything 3/4 or larger, so I also get nervous about over-heating any ball valves. Any work...

I understand the M18 can go up to 2”: but this is residential, where 1” is the largest size I’m dealing with. Plus, the M18 propress is nearly twice as much as the M12. Milwaukee rates the M12 up to 1.25”. Are you saying that’s not the case? Or does it just take longer? When looking at the...

I’m considering the very expensive investment in a propress tool, specifically the M12 version (I’m quite invested in the platform). I’m just a homeowner, and soldering isn’t my strongest skill. So when things like the hot water heater break: I always worry how long my joints will last. I’m...

Perfect. I’ll give that a try then. Fingers crossed it works.... not sure I’ll have enough pex left to cut out another section!

I’ll have to give it another shot. I found when trying to fit the couplings on a bench (versus overhead in a cramped utility closet) that at 2 turns, the pvc’s threads started to break. any issue with turning the fitting while attached to the pex?

Hoping somebody can guide me here! I’m relocating half of my sprinkler system for a porch that’s going in (there are two controller boxes, one in the front and one in the rear) My home is copper pipe, but the sprinkler was installed with PVC. To simplify: I’m using PEX. (Copper above ground...

Nope: finished basement means I really can’t move it far without pulling down drywall.

yes, two handles: it’s a woodford v22 faucet. the basement is finished: so there’s no way to move the facet more than a few inches left or right. Going up would put the facet into our first floor dining room: there’s a window directly above the faucet, so I’d rather not open up the wall.

I’m trying to weigh options for an outdoor faucet: it exits the house right where the ledgerboard will be installed (no room to move it up or down). we live in New England: so freezing is an issue. The spigot/faucet is hot/cold. I’ll be installing an access panel either way: but what would...

Our fridge doesn’t have the nice water supply box behind it... rather: there was a shutoff in the basement with a 1/4” copper supply line running up to the fridge. I replaced that line with 1/4” PE tubing, so I can add an RO system soon. I will admit, the PE tubing has a longer run... I have...

I’m looking to run a water supply line to my fridge from my basement to my first floor: The run will be about 25 feet total (including a loop behind the fridge to allow us to pull it out). 1: Is PE Tubing safe to run in wall? 2: would I want 3/8” tubing for the fridge because of the run? Or...

I'm considering an RO system for my house: I understand that typically you want to drain upstream of a p-trap: and with some effort, I could certainly make that happen... But I'm wondering why one couldn't drain into a modified cleanout trap? My thought is to take the cleanout cap, thread a...

I’m replacing my water heater, but the new one has a larger footprint. This necessitates moving supply lines around. I’m curious how much affect adding two 90* elbows, and 2 feet of pipe would harm gas flow? I’ve been reading about gas pipe calculations, but it doesn’t specify how elbows...

So no need for an additional dielectric union? Just get a 3/4 female adaptor and go?

I’m installing a new water heater, and was going to solder the water lines all up: but I just started reading that you’re better off using shark-bite whips to limit the electrolysis? what are the thoughts here? The braided shark-bite connectors would be a lot easier, but I’m not opposed to...

ah; never really lived by that mantra. So Drake II, 1gpf is the way to go: because you can always hold the handle longer? Are Toto internals standard? (IE could I repair it with a standard Korky kit? Or do they have a proprietary design, like kohler? Or do I not need to worry about totos?)

I’m confused by your last sentence? You have to flush with something each time?

Would you put the 1gallon in your home? Or 1.28?