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Thanks again. I understand now that I'd cut the pipe, unthread both ends and assemble a new series of nipples with a union and a new valve. I'll have to bust out some concrete where the pipe goes underground, but I'm confident that there is a 90 elbow down there. Hopefully, the vertical pipe...

HJ, once you cut the pipe, you need to cut threads on it to put a union on. But the pipe is near a wall and I don't think there's space to get a threader on there. Maybe there is. Can you weld an adapter or a union onto the pipe stud?

Thanks HJ.

There is no union, which is why I'm trying to find a way to keep the valve body in place. But it seems like a long shot or an impossibility. I assume I'm going to have to start at the nearby meter and disassemble every nipple, elbow, reducer and tee until I get to the valve? Seems like a lot of...

Hi everybody Is it possible to repair an in line natural gas valve moving part and leave the body in place? It is on an outside pipe that goes maybe 100 feet to a pool heater. The tabs where you would turn it with a wrench broke off. It’s about 30 years old. There is a nut on the back side so...

I have posted some photos of the tub drain setup, taken through the back access panel to the tub plumbing. Not the easiest space to work in, but I have had a lot of practice by now. As I mentioned in the previous email, this Gerber drain uses a weird slip joint gasket that is black rubber with...

Mine is a lift and twist, not a lever operated plug. But it doesn't matter. You see where the drain shoe pipe goes into the cast brass tee. Inside there is a gasket or washer. I see on other brands (I looked at a Moen) they use a wedge shaped white nylon similar to most slip joints. This Gerber...

Hi. Maybe I should start a new thread, but I am still trying to get the tub drain to stop leaking at where the drain shoe enters the tee. I took it apart and put in a new ABS trap with slight different lengths and angles of pipe. But the drain still has a very slight leak from where the drain...

The 2x4 stringer prevented the tub from getting close to the studs, so I pulled it off and cut it down to a net 1x3.5. I then screwed it back into the studs 1/4 in below the lip of the tub flange, which by the way has a v shape edge underneath. Then I shimmed the gap with wood wedges that I made...

I don't know if anybody will see this follow up, but my crew installed my CI Kohler tub and I've got some worries. I'll just ask about one. Kohler's instructions make no mention of a ledger and I called their customer service. They don't recommend a ledger. Anyway, the plumber put in a ledger...

I am installing a Kohler Seaforth cast iron tub, which is a 54" wide tub. The instruction don't include a ledger, so I may not use one. It's supposed to be shimmed so all four legs sit solidly. I am going to build the wall opposite the drain after the tub is installed, which I think should make...

Can I ask one follow up question. I am going to have the tub installed before I build the back wall of the alcove. I figure it will be easier to handle the tub from two sides than one. When I build the back stud wall, should I set the studs directly against the tub or leave a bit of play, like...

Terry, Again thanks. I misspoke about using flexible connection. I meant a shielded coupling that would connect the 1.5" cast iron pipe to a 1.5" ABS pipe that would then go into an ABS trap.

Thanks very much for the reply Terry. My setup is a little bit different. I posted a photo. I could cut the pipe right at the trap hub, but I though it might be useful to preserve as much of the pipe as possible so that we have flexibility to make the new connection.

I am installing a new bathtub. I don't think the existing cast iron trap is set right to fit the tub drain, so I want to remove it and put in an ABS trap with a flexible couple. The 1 1/2 inch cast iron trap is attached to a horizontal cast iron pipe. It looks like it has lead in the joint. I...