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For vents you can use anything. That is, as long as you don't create a mid-vent low point that would trap condensation; condensation always needs to be able to drip back towards a drain. Cheapest and simplest will likely be to use just regular quarter bends and sanitary tees, but you could use...

If you replace "=" with "is a function of", then yes. I think there may also be a subtle terminological difference, in that distance, pipe size, and flow rate determine the pressure loss due to flow through that pipe. The pump needs to develop sufficient dynamic head to satisfy that pressure...

Head is another word for pressure. The units are convenient: if you are pumping water uphill 20 ft, then the static pressure you have to pump against is 20 ft of head. 1 ft of head = 0.433 psi. The static part of that statement is for the case water isn't flowing or is flowing so slowly you...

No. UPC restricts wet vents to one bathroom. You can't use a drain carrying a WC as a wet vent for a second WC. Cheers, Wayne

Your labels aren't 100% clear, because of so much text. A single letter on each pipe, with a key not overlaid on the picture, would be clearer. Seems like if your wall is still going to be 7", there's room within it to cross a 3" drain pipe and a 1-1/2" vent pipe. The ODs are 3.5" and 1.9"...

But what's the problem with using the word "efficiency" instead of "COP"? If option A is 50% efficient, and option B is 100% efficient, then option A takes 100% / 50% = 2.0 times as much of the input as option B would take to get the same output. Likewise, if option C is 250% efficient...

Washing machine vent was specified as 1.5", using it to vent the WC does not comply with the UPC. Cheers, Wayne

Simply connecting the new WC drain to the existing (offset) waste stack as indicated will not provide a vent for the WC. I believe that Nebraska uses the UPC, which requires a 2" vent for a WC. In which case the washing machine's 1.5" vent will also not suffice for venting the WC. You'd...

You seem to imply that it's misleading or dishonest, but it's not. The usual term that I've seen used in describing heat pumps is COP or coefficient of performance. A resistance electric heater would have a COP of 1.0. If a heat pump water heater has a COP of 3.0, that means it will use 1/3...

Not sure. Siemens definitely (just checked), maybe GE, I think Cutler Hammer (but maybe only one of CH and BR, not sure), pretty sure not QO or Homeline, don't know about Leviton. Cheers, Wayne

OK, but not just the takeoff has to be 45 degrees above horizontal, all of the vent from the takeoff to the wall where it turns vertical needs to be at least 45 degrees above horizontal. Reroute the 3" WC drain if required to achieve this with a reasonable depth. No, tub traps are never...

This used to be an impediment, but now several manufacturers have removed all neutral monitoring from their AFCIs, so you can just use two single pole AFCIs on an MWBC Cheers, Wayne

Use a standard 1-1/2" solvent-weld p-trap. The c-t-c from the bottom of the u-bend to the outlet is 3.86". A 1-1/2" pipe is 1.91" is OD. That makes 5.77" in overall height, plus the extra height for the hub, maybe 0.25"? At 6" total height, you could relieve the ceiling below and/or the...

That will work well as long as the existing vent is 6" above the lav flood rim. Cheers, Wayne

Still doesn't have to stay, but it's fine for it to stay. Since you are wet venting the tub, the stack and drains need to be 2" where they carry the drainage for two lavs; where the stack is a pure dry vent, 1-1/2" is okay. An advantage of leaving the stack is your horizontal double lav drain...

Your picture shows a combo. It's called that as it is a one piece combination wye plus 45. You can always use a wye plus a 45 where you need a combo, but that would take up more room. Either the perspective is very weird, or you're showing a 2" combo. I don't understand what that picture...

No, that should be a combo. What's the length along the pipe run and the fall from the left-hand trap weir (the point where water first spills out) to the crotch of the san-tee on the stack? That's limited to 72" and 1-1/2" of fall. If it's over that, you'll need to add a vent takeoff in...

Comments, starting from the upstream end (primary bathroom): - Keeping the building drain straight with no bends may look good on paper, but there's not a big upside. You could use a couple 22.5s or 45s to jog as required to make things easier or fix any issues. - Kentucky has its own...

So the middle 3" pipe going up is a vent all the way through to the roof, no drainage coming in? Is that just to comply with requirement for the total vent area through the roof? Because it serves no purpose for the WC or the shower. As long as that bonus 3" vent is there, I think it's better...

If you want a 4" closet flange, the only way you are allowed to reduce to a 3" toilet fixture drain is by using a 3" x 4" reducing closet bend. So do that, or use a 3" closet flange. There is never any other allowance to reduce drain size along the direction of flow. Cheers, Wayne