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Amazing. Thanks for your thoughts, Terry. It's a 103 year old house, so there are a lot of aberrations, to be sure.

My old standard toilet was plumbed directly into my 4" cast iron soil stack, and I want to replace it with a hall hanging toilet. I've picked up a sigma duofix carrier for 2x4 walls from Geberit. The old toilet was wet vented. This is the only toilet in the house. It's is on the second floor...

Thanks again for your advice. I think the easy answer is no. Your point about the total boiler running time is well noted.

I forgot to put directional arrows on the drawing.

It's not that the zones don't match. The temperature difference I'm fretting about (maybe unnecessarily) is across the hydraulic separation —i.e. closely spaced tees— between boiler pump and zone pump. From my observations it seems a good portion of the hot water supply coming from the boiler...

That makes complete sense. Looks like an autocorrect error here, but I can't make sense of it.

What will measuring the amperage tell me?

If I separated the rads from the floors, what would you then change? Send hotter water to the rads? Just to clarify, when you say "loop," do you mean in series? The emitters are all in parallel within the zones.

I agree that if the cool return water from the zones heading to the boiler is crucial. In the image above, the cool water returning from the zones is at 84F. The problem that I see is that the water returning to the boiler is hotter 88F. More to the pount, I'm not happy with the 9F split between...

The boiler isn't short cycling (currently 15-45 cycles per day). Any thoughts as to how I can get a slower flow rate, if that's what you're saying I need? What mode would you use on the Taco VT2218?

Could changing the primary and secondary pump flow rates be a way to get more heat out to the zones? I'm confused as to why there always seems to be a temperature drop between the primary supply and the secondary supply. There often seems to be a ~10F drop between the supply from the boiler and...

The piping is under 7/8" tongue and groove subfloor and 3/8" hardwood.

60C (140F) is what's required to heat my house at -17C (1F), based on the heat loss for my house, and the emitters we installed. In the past winter, we only had a few days that got close to that temperature, around 5F (-15C), but the house was cozy on those days. Actually, more cozy than usual...

It's hardwood flooring (3/8") with tongue and groove subfloor (7/8"). (NB: the actual insulation used is R22, and I didn't use a reflective foil.) I don't have a floor sensor, but I designed the system maximum temperature with this in mind. At design temperature, with the effective R1.85...

That's right, it's all one temperature. Design system temperature is 140F (at 1F outdoor temp), and max temp is 154F. Minimum system temperature is 93F.

The delta t in the primary loop is comparable to the secondary, when temperatures are higher. Yesterday the delta t was 9F in the primary and 9F in the secondary. When the weather gets colder, the primary delta t will increase. I have data from a day in March, for instance, the outdoor...

A few years ago, I got some great help here doing heat loss calculations, choosing a boiler, and designing a radiant system for my home. The system is installed now, and it ran well all last winter. I'm very happy with how efficient it has been, and how comfortable it is. Thanks to everyone who...

Hi all, I'm wondering what precautions to take when running PEX through joists to prevent expansion noises. Is just running it through a clearance hole good enough? Should it go through some sort of hanger/bushing? How many 1/2" or 5/8" pipes would you put through one clearance hole? I was...

Well, that does narrow it down a bit. I tend to agree with you that it is a flow issue. Sounds like the head loss on those two rads is significantly higher than the others. When you open the bleeder valve, you are creating a lower head loss path for the water to take, and thus bringing an...

When you say you "bleed" the rads to get heat to them, do you mean that there is a significant amount of air which needs to be bled? Or do you mean that you let water flow out through the bleed valve? If they are filling with air, then that's one issue, and would explain why they aren't getting...