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Is your jet pump primed?

Well, it needs to be ground down because it will look like a smiley face. And if you try to plug an item in the dark, you don't have to guess how to orient your plug. Just sayin'

Is that white pipe painted ABS? Looks like someone spray painted the inside of the cabinet and the pipe. If it is ABS, I'd clean the end and then use an ABS trap. It probably won't fix your problem but it will make it neater.

i think his assembly will actually shift a bit to the right by a few inches. I'm assuming the hole in the sill is the center of the toilet. That said, I don't know if you can fit the wye and elbow inside the joist space without drilling a hole large enough for the wye's hub. That might be a...

Are you sure that the 2x4 wall is load-bearing ? It could be just a wall over which the joists span. Maybe it's just a wall for an interior partition on the lower floor (e.g. a closet or bathroom). I would have expected a break in the joists above a load-bearing wall. But that may not...

Yeah, put a bucket under the AAV if you remove it to test

And to rule out the garburator, remove the p-trap and put a bucket in its place. See if sink drains properly.

To rule out the AAV, remove it and see if the sink drains properly

I guess checking the floor level with a proper level would be in order. A 1" drop over 24" should be quite noticeable. If the floor is level, the flange being too high makes sense. And with bolts on one end of the toilet, it's easy to see how the other end would raise as the bolts are...

The correct thing to do is level the floor but if that's out of the question, it will be difficult to find a solution that will look nice. If I were to try something, it might be epoxy mixed in with a thickening agent. Colloidal silica is white and you would end up with a matte white joint...

Could the rats have come in from the sewer and chewed their way out?

Not a clue. I'm not a plumber so I only used them one time. But I've done what Fitter has said as well. A PVC tee with a bushing appropriate for your pressure gauge.

They readily exist in brass. For plastic, the only ones I found when doing a pex job last year were the swivel types. Something like this: https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-2-x-1-2-polyalloy-pex-fpt-swivel-adapter

I meant in the 1.25" pipe with the sandpoint. If the water level drops, it would be in indication that the soil is permeable enough to also let water in.

I agree with John that in a closed loop system, pumps in series will not have the effect you think. As he explains, the water has nowhere to go except back to the first pump. The system will get to equilibrium pretty fast. That said, as soon as you open a faucet, it is no longer a closed...

I was thinking the same thing about the foot valve inside the 1.5" pipe. I also assumed a sand point but maybe it's just an open-ended pipe? I also assumed the pipe filled with water to the 6ft mark and the recovery is pretty good. In other words, we are assuming there is water in the pipe to...

Unfortunately, the specs don't state the maximum static suction lift but I assume it is less than your 6ft. Also, it might not be able to overcome the force of the spring in the foot valve. Try it without (but you'll need to find a way to not lose prime)

So did you prime it as per the instructions in the user manual?

Which pump do you have specifically? It may need to be primed.

If you're worried about that crack allowing asbestos getting into the water supply, you should be more worried about e-coli getting into the water supply. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/publications/healthy-living/asbestos-drinking-water-infographic-2021.html