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It will be fine. The pipe should go straight thru the concrete and into the dirt underneath.

I own a tub stretcher for such situations. I can't believe it wasn't suggested!

I've seen plumbers do worse. Lol. I would suggest a drop ear elbow on the tub spout next time.

There is a packing nut under the handle. Remove the handle, snug up the packing nut, reinstall handle. It should be fine.

Several of their smaller models and some of their "quad" models are packed bed. Other quad models are not packed but are overfilled (resin comes up to where the dome starts) compared to the norm.

They do but very ineffective. If stuff gets in it doesn't like to come back out. Their packed bed units are intended for city water but still tend to be problematic.

A K50 had what they call a packed bed. Each tank requires .4 cu ft of resin. To achieve this you must fill the tank, tap tank on the floor, fill, tap ect until no more will fit. At the factory they actually use a vibrating pad under the tank.

I've rarely had a problem with a quality true union valve but what are you really saving? They are in the same price range as a brass ball valve.

Depends on if you are talking about a $3 Chinese sch 40 valve or a $50 quality sch 80 true union.

I have never heard of that before. This is why I let the fabricator install the glass. It's out of my hand!

So much to look at with this newly installed bathroom. I was there for a kitchen remodel when this discovery was made.

Why not just get it inspected? The inspector will let you know if there is an issue.

Just make one! (Please don't do this)

Give supplyhouse.com a shot. Get registered as a business and get discounted prices. Most things are cheaper than anywhere else. Plus you can order at 2am in your tighty whities while drinking a beer and have it delivered for free.

You have to cut the pipe between fittings somewhere. Then replumb. I just stub the pipe, lay subfloor and flooring. Come back and cut the stub to the correct height with an inside pipe cutter and install new flange.

Adjusting the nut on the short stud raises/lowers the cutoff pressure only. With this you can adjust the differential to whatever you want it to be. Then adjust the tall one to move that new pressure range up or down.

The flange is permanent. Two options: 1. Cut the pipe and replace as necessary 2. Remove flooring leaving flange intact then frame/cut new subfloor as necessary to have a seam centered on the flange. Slide the subfloor under the flange

Sharkbite fittings are good for two things: 1. Temporary cap during a remodel 2. Scrap bin weight

Cut the copper. Using a union is a good idea. The 1-1/4" tee has 1-1/4" male threads and 1" female threads so staying 1" is easy.

One upper float is sufficient. I would also suggest a lower float (normally open) to protect the pump from running dry if the water in the tanks get too low