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Thanks valveman. Some of that makes sense, some of it is a bit confusing. To clarify, I guess I should state that we dont have a low water supply issue. I dont foresee a time we will ever actually run the hydrant so fast that it would ever drain the tank - theres no need for flow that high...

I had a 6" nipple for the switch but the tank is so wide that the long nipple makes the switch hit the tank when you thread it on. I had to go with a 1-1/2" to get it to clear. I guess I could move it away with some elbows and/or a union if it's ever an issue. Not sure on the exact height...

We do have a sump pump down there and it's always worked fine, but now that the pressure switch sits so low in the pit im worried about the float level. I may need to find something with a lower float or get a floatless pump that I turn on from time to time.

I apologize in advance - this is kind of long. Background - we have a unique well setup at our farm that utilizes an old windmill driven Monitor ZA pump jack that is converted to run off of a 220 electric motor. We replaced the pressure tank and re-plumbed the well for a variety of reasons...

I buttoned everything up tonight. When I took the temp trap off I found some sand in my previously clean pipe. I suspect the plumber wad right - the concrete guys dropped some junk down the floor drain. Seems to drain alright, but it might cause issues down the road

Water moves through the trap because gravity is pushing it, not because a vacuum in your lines is pulling it through. As hj pointed out, once past the trap, the water only occupies the bottom half of the pipe and the air in the upper half of the trap arm is more than adequate to prevent...

Most supply lines and shutoff valves are 3/8" compression. This refers to the pipe size, not the wrench size of the nut. There are other sizes, but those are not common on fixtures like toilets. However, you said it's old so who knows.

Forgot to mention, I also flushed all the toilets and ran all the fixtures (tubs, showers, sinks) with cap off of that pipe and never saw anything come out.

Plumber was out yesterday and it was about what I expected. I know the guy and like him, but he didnt seem concerned at all. He said I could have the line scoped and if there was a plumbing issue they would pay for it. Before I dropped $200 on a scope job, I decided to do some more...

When you say Sharkbite, are you referring to the push on connectors, or the Sharkbite brand of crimp on PEX connectors? Does your new heater come with heat trap fittings?

I guess it's similar, but not the same. I have a main stack that services the main and second floor. Falling waste from those toilets could have caught the T as Terry suggested and flowed the wrong way if incorrectly sloped.

I believe my setup is constructed very similar to this aside from the fact that my sink stub and trap go directly to the stack about 24" away and do not have a separate vent line. While running the shower would hopefully clear some waste in the future, it is a basement bath that will be used...

So what happens if they used a santee on the horizontal under the slab? I came almost every day during the build to take pictures, but they managed to lay plumbing, rock, radon barrier, and slab all in one day, so I never saw it. I have the installer coming Monday to look at a very crooked water...

Here are pictures of the layout and the cap that I cut off. The rough-in was done assuming a tub would be installed, but I opted for shower only. As a result, I cut the floor out so that I could have a central drain and symmetrical shower pan. The rough-in stub on the right is 2" PVC and it...

In the process of finishing off a basement bath that had rough ins installed when we built the house 3 years ago. I was about to install the shower p-trap but when I cut the cap off the 2" stub below the concrete slab, there was some standing sludge/sewage in the pipe. There was no liquid, but...

Nice, thanks

I'll eat my words, I made an assumption without fully reading the description. The pushtite is not pvc as reach pointed out. Actually has a better fit than anticipated - if the plumbing company won't fix it, I'll go this route.

I know thats what you suggested, I just didnt really consider them at all until I thought of gluing the fins to the ID. I can almost guarantee they are PVC. PVC comes in all sorts of durometers - it all depends on how much plasticizer you add. "Vinyl" tubing is PVC. I'm betting it's PVC for...

I had a thought over lunch about the push-tite fittings made by Sioux. I'm not a huge fan just based on the fact that I don't know how long the vanes will hold tight, but I was wondering if the vanes could be bonded to the inside of the pipe? I believe the red part in the image below is soft...

here is a photo of the pipe next to a level. The install company is coming out on Monday to look. He had all sorts of excuses/remedies on the phone, but when I told him how far off it was he went silent. I took that as admission that it was excessive. Hopefully they are willing to fix it...