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I asked a follow up question in and older thread, but the title didn't fit the issue so posting here as well. New water heater last spring. Rheem PRO + G75 - 76N RH https://www.rheem.com/product/profe...r-with-8-year-limited-warranty-pro-g75-76n-rh Purchased and installed the Warranty...

Sarg, Thanks for the reply last spring. I agree and think I did right. BUT, I have a major problem. The hot water smells terrible. I know the normal statement is its smells like rotten eggs (H2S) but I say its more like rotten garbage. Some days unbearable. Showers stink up the whole house...

Thanks Terry, That's what I though too, but there is no check valve in them. There is a soft foam like flapper that moves in either direction. From a practical matter, I guess I "don't care" anymore as I am not using these nipples. I went with the 3/4" fittings in the warranty extension kit and...

New Rheem RO+G75-76N RH with the added warranty hot water anode. First question, If using the included 1" nipples, which end is up? The nipples are stainless. I need to reduce to 3/4". Just a simple Bell reducer and nipple? I will use sharkbite water heater fitting that has 3/4" female...

Thanks phog. As we were out of hot water, I did purchase the Rheem 75 gallon. Unfortunately its a couple inches larger in diameter than the old one that was a tight squeeze. I had to re work some gas lines. I also purchased the additional hot water anode to extend the warranty. I'm not sure...

Assuming the Rheem is a good / best option, should I buy this add on?

Confirming the Rheem is available for $875 within an hour of me. The supply house down the street and many on line are in the $1200 range. I'm thinking I should take it and run?

Pilot will not light on my 75 gallon Rheem 29-75-5 from January 1977. Based on research here, I think these are 2 good options: Rheem PRO + G75 - 76N RH...

Thanks - I THOUGHT it was tight, but perhaps not.... I'll try that first.

In a previous thread, @Reach4 stated: "(Brass and stainless) and (brass and copper) are normally thought to not have galvanic corrosion problems." I'm not disputing that at all, but.... "Normally" and "Problems" offer at least a level of concern greater than Zero. My house has all original...

Thank you!

@valveman @Reach4 @Bannerman @Sarg (Anyone else I missed) Thanks all for the help. Here is a pic of my final (almost) installation. (I will create a new thread to ask about threaded PVS joint leaks.) And of course, please feel free to point out any areas of concern.

Myers 1.5 HP, 2 wire, 20 GPM. Replaced a Grundfos 3/4 HP, 10 GPM. Pump hanging from 60 ft PVC and water level is about 10-12 feet over that. I assume I am good?

Thanks. so I can put that in the outlet of my CSV and then a 3/4 elbow in the bushing?

Related to my thread with regards to installing a CSV, I want to put this bushing directly into the CSV outlet. (To create a plastic barrier between the stainless valve and the copper pipe and fittings) Why in the world would this bushing be listed as for Non-Potable water? Thanks

Follow up question numbers ?? and ?? Do I need to maintain 1" outlet from the CSV for a particular length? Assuming not, can I put a 1 x 3/4 bushing directly into the outlet? Can I then run a 3/4 Elbow immediately into the bushing? No turbulence or friction issues?

Follow up question(s): 1. I cant imagine there is a difference with the switch or the gage being first (closest to the CSV) - Correct? 2. What is the highlighted gizmo and what does it do? I assume it's direction IS important?

Awwsome! Got it!

@Reach4 @Bannerman Thanks for the replys.

@valveman Well.... After 4 years (and despite my ambitious comments above) I 'm finally installing the PK1. Current set up to which I will add the CSV pictures below. 1. No check valve between the well and the CSV, correct? 2. Can I / Should I put a sample port between the well and the CSV...