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The gauge does go down when a faucet is opened and then climbs back up to 50 when the faucet is closed, so it does appear to be working. It just never exceeds about 50. Given the variety of answers, I think should try three separate troubleshooting steps: 1. Verify the pressure gauge is...

Yes, the burst is only after no water use for a while. I assumed this was due to the water heater coming on and causing thermal expansion. In my many dozens (hundreds?) of observations of the pressure gauge, it never exceeds about 50 PSI. I last replaced the PRV in 2016. Reach, are you saying...

Hi all, I thought I installed my TPR discharge piping properly a few years back, but in reviewing the latest code I'm not sure. My water heater is located next to an exterior wall in a main floor utility room with no floor drain. I am currently discharging via galvanized steel pipe to the...

I have been closely monitoring the pressure gauge for increased pressure but it is always within 2 PSI of 50. This has confused me because I can also clearly observe the short bursts of water pressure when first opening the faucet sometimes. Now it makes sense!

Thank you, LLigetfa! This issue is a bit confusing because short bursts of high water pressure when opening a faucet are evidence that a thermal expansion tank is needed in the first place! So some people may be confused because short bursts of high water pressure will continue even after...

Hi all, Sometimes (but not all the time), when I first open a faucet, the water pressure is momentarily higher than normal for about 3-5 seconds. This short burst of higher pressure is not extreme but is definitely noticeable. Here are a few relevant facts about my system: 1. I have a...

I removed the anode rod and am draining the tank right now. I was surprised to find that the anode rod appears to be in great condition after 7 years. Is this because I have only used the heater in heat pump mode (never electric)? To see a photo, click on the "x" image below - the forum is...

Hello all, I have a 7-year-old GE Geospring hybrid water heater that has recently acquired some rusty looking streaks on the exterior of the tank. The bottom/pan of the tank appears to have bulged a bit away and I can see some wetness in there. I have indicated that area with red arrows in the...

Eman, that was one of my first thoughts also. Perhaps it is being overly picky, but using a barbed fitting would reduce the inside diameter of the connection and could lead to slightly more maintenance due to sludge accumulating more easily.

The 3/4" vinyl tubing is fairly stiff and comes in a coil. For now it has some memory and resists being placed in a certain position. It does stay inside the 3/4" threaded coupling, but just barely. I think I'll use your suggestion to use the 3/4 x 1 fitting but also add another several inches...

Yes, the existing 3/4" threaded coupling is glued to the condensate drain. If I glued the vinyl tubing to the threaded coupling it would definitely be secure, but I would not be able to remove it to clean the condensate line.

Thanks for your reply. The problem with the setup in the photo is that the vinyl tubing is just barely secured inside the 3/4" threaded fitting and is at risk of falling out and leaking all over the floor. So I need to make the connection more secure. For now I'm using gaffer's tape (photo...

Hello all, I installed a dehumidifier that drains through a 3/4" vinyl tube that goes into my air handler closet where there is an existing PVC condensate line. I have attached a photo of what is currently there. As you can see, the existing PVC condensate line has a threaded plug that removes...

Thanks everyone. You were all correct: it was just a leak. I was overthinking things (as usual) by worrying about galvanic corrosion. As Reach suggested, tightening by 1/4 turn (and being careful to not also turn/torque the hose above) appears to have solved the problem.

I replaced my water heater supply lines just over a year ago. I just noticed that there is some corrosion forming around one of the hose joint connections. I've attached a photo below. There is a tiny bit of water leakage at the hose joint - just enough that I can detect moisture with my...

Update: I didn't have a tool that would remove the seized plug cap so I just waited for the plumber to take it off. Once he had it off it was apparent that the clog was on the house side. He snaked the line to the house and removed the blockage. He then finished the job by snaking to the street...

Thanks for the suggestions. I opened one of the cleanouts that I installed (right below one of the WCs) and used a camera to look down the drain. There is no blockage before the stack, so the clog must be further down the main line. I have a couple of cleanouts installed in the crawlspace on the...

Thanks again, Wayne. I should have mentioned that the photo I posted is a "before" photo. I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I did recognize that the unbanded rubber coupling had to go. I ended up replacing the entire cast iron stack with PVC and there is no longer a rubber coupling at all...

Thanks for the comments, wwhitney. If it matters, the "sink" in the diagram is actually not really labelled correctly; this is a drain line coming from the kitchen and utility (laundry). I've attached a photo below that shows what I mean. I'd be surprised if the horizontal wet vent setup is...

Thanks, Worth. I do have an exterior cleanout and it is burried under the grass. I found it a couple of years back when installing a french drain in the yard. I am guessing that you are suggesting to have a look inside the cleanout to see if it appears full of sewage, indicating that the...