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The unit will maintain your settings even if power is lost! The unit has 4 AA batteries inside. The batteries will NOT run a program when power is lost or disconnected. However, if power is lost to the unit during a purge cycle, the battery backup will ensure the valve is closed after the cycle...

My AP-75 purge valve is setup for program <9> and <E> as frequency. Program <9> means the purge valve will be activated ONCE every 24 hours and <E> indicates the valve will open for 25 seconds once the purge cycle is activated.

I also like the idea of having a water meter for my well. However, I wouldn't want one if it would introduce very much friction loss. If the friction loss would be considered negligible OR have very little effect on pressure (less than 1 PSI), then I might look into getting one as well. Can...

Over the years, I've had two 1HP control boxes that came with the following installed inside the box: https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-JOSLYN-MFG-SECONDARY-SURGE-PROTECTOR-J9200-1-NEW/164015373231?hash=item263013fbaf:g:GN8AAOSwlq9eDeVq I've also purchased a couple of the same a number of years...

If it were me and IF the sprinklers you're using have interchangeable nozzles, I would simply replace the existing nozzles with a little larger nozzle. This will allow you to determine the nozzle size required to keep the pump running continuously and at a suitable pressure. This is what I did...

Not trying to steal this thread, but I have a question for LLigetfa: In reference to the pressure range of a pressure switch - do you feel it's critical to maintain no more than a 20 PSI range on the pressure switch to eliminate the possibility of "torturing" the diaphragm in the pressure tank...

Thanks so very much Valveman!!!!!! Just out of curiosity, is there a video OR online procedure/web link for checking and refilling a pump motor you can recommend or share. I would very much like to see or read about the process. Thanks again!

5- Or, is it not recommended to purchase a motor (even one that was just manufactured) and let it sit until needed ………. especially when the sit time might be several years?????

1- Wet end is a Flint & Walling 10 GPM (used 6 years when old motor failed - wet end in great condition) 2- Old pump has already been replaced with a new F&W 10 GPM pump & motor 3- I was thinking of getting a replacement motor for my old wet end so that I would have a complete spare for...

This is a 4" PVC cased well ……………. fully cased top to bottom. However, can someone answer my earlier question: I've come across a fairly good price on a NEW, but not in the original box Goulds/Centripro 1HP 4 wire submersible motor. The individual states the motor is about 2 years old. The...

I've come across a fairly good price on a NEW, but not in the original box Goulds/Centripro 1HP 4 wire submersible motor. The individual states the motor is about 2 years old. The motor brand is CENTRIPRO Is Centripro the motor used by Goulds??? Or does Goulds make their own brand???

Thanks Reach! However, this is a 4" well, so I can't put a sleeve on the pump.

Thanks Valveman! I try to locate a good price on either a Franklin, Goulds or Pentair.

That's great! Should I get a Franklin motor OR most any brand will do?? On the other hand, is there any particular brands I should steer clear of?

My purpose for this post is to decide if it is reasonable or wise to order a motor for my 6 year old pump head: * The pump end was an F&W 10 GPM (model: 4F10S10301) * At the time the Franklin motor failed, the pump end was functioning perfectly * After removing the pump motor, the pump end...

Thanks so very much Valveman! So, based on the photos I provided, do you feel this is what likely occurred with this particular pump motor? I still have the old pump parts - is this something I can easily check to see if the bearing truly was the culprit. Remember this pump was only 6 years...

I disassembled the motor today (9/27/2019) 1) Photos of motor before beginning the process - other than the slightly small area of rust below the wiring, the motor looked as good as the day it was installed: 2) Armature removed in this photo- possibly the tolerances weren't quite correct...

Valveman, The resistance readings I listed in post #9 were taken directly from the motor leads while the motor sat on the workbench in my shop. The resistance readings were the same with or without the well drop wire connected. While the pump motor windings don't have a direct short to ground...

Thanks Reach and Valveman! 1- More than 100K ohms between motor leads and ground may be considered OK, but for my motor it appeared to be an issue. As a matter of fact, I had checked the leads at the TOP of the well back in May of this year and each motor lead to ground read infinity at that...

I'm thinking I will investigate a little further and TRY to determine what happened to the old motor. For the time being, I will say that I have removed the pump end from the motor and the motor shaft turns will very little effort. Because of this, I'm thinking the stator hasn't swelled as you...