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Update: it was indeed a bad connection at the wellhead. Pump is just fine—ohms are to spec. I now have a new clamp meter in case any new adventures pop up. Thx for your help

THX Valveman. The pumpsaver was at normal calibration and the valve was fully open when I emptied the well--like I've done a number of times before. I will check/redo the connections at the wellhead and pick up a clamp meter. I guess my real question was how long a pump can run dry before it...

I have a slow well and I was testing the water volume and pumping gpms so I could set the ball valve output into the cistern. I relied on my PumpSaver to shut it off when the well went dry. When the flow stopped, I ran back to the panel to flip the breaker anyway in less than 1 min. That was...

I have been getting town water trucked in for a few years, but decided to give fracking a try on my 6yo 240' well that only produced 0.1 gpm of highly mineralized water. The fracker worked on the top portion of the well and within about 30 min of finishing, told me the well now produced 2 gpm of...

Dropbox asks for sign in, but you don't have to do it. Just click the X in the top right corner. I will remove the checkvalve. Thanks

I see. So check valve at the tee is unnecessary because there is a check valve in the pump?

I just installed an entirely new cistern-fed 40/60 system and immediately have a cavitation noise, which gets louder when the pressure builds past 55psi. The fill cuts off at 59psi, but drops a point or two after. The tank refill takes 40 seconds, which is faster than I'd like. Video is posted...

Step has floating impellers though. I think you have something against those too

Right, longevity was a concern of mine. Then again, the place will only be seeing weekend and summer vacation duty for the next 7-8 yrs. Glad to hear endorsement of the concept though. The Pentair Sta-rite has the same curves. http://www.sta-rite.com/ResidentialProduct_sr_se_ef_10DOM05121.aspx

Thanks for the links. Got confirmation meanwhile from electrician that direct wiring through 15a float wires would be no problem--and simpler. As for the cistern pump, has anyone got experience with the 10gpm 230v Franklin C1? It has several feature advantages such as drawing from lower in the...

Thanks for the info about the SBA all-in-one. I cannot find any reviews about it anywhere, but Grundfos said it would do the job. Will go the traditional route. But about the float switch, my question is on wiring it up--directly into the 10/2 line at the cistern or through a relay device back...

Thank for all the assistance, I think I have almost everything figured out. A Grundfos 5S05-09 in the well gives me a gentle 1-2gpm to the cistern, and a Grundfos SBA in the cistern gives me an all-in-one way to deliver water to the house. I just need to know what sort of control-box relay and...

Thanks. There is no real hurry to fill the cistern of that size, so I think I will go for the 1gpm valve. Now sourcing a pump and I will contact you about the Sensor I also see from other posts that safety rope/wire and torque arrester are not recommended?

Been off doing other stuff, but thanks for previous advice on setting up my low-yield well with a cistern. It looks like a 5gpm 1/2hp pump fits the bill best, plus a safety measure like a Cycle Sensor. I found 0.25gpm dole valves online, which would match the rated flow of the well. My question...

Thanks for the quick reply, I hadn't known that the Cycle Sensor delay setting was as long as 500min. That should work just fine. I had been looking at water heater timers, which are not very smart or flexible. I have a couple of other rookie Qs through, Would 1/2 hp -5gpm pump be OK at 200+'...

Hi all, I'm new to the world of wells and could use some advice. The local well contractors are giving me conflicting opinions. I have literally sunk a lot of dollars into a 250' well that only produces less than 1/4 gpm. I then had a 1200gal concrete cistern set about halfway along a total run...