Search results

  1. 157

    Non-kit “full size” sink trap — how?

    I’m just trying to put it a full-size 1-1/2” trap like a: NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Hub x Hub P-Trap but I guess what you are saying is that those are only for glue-ups and the slip-hub trap adaptors are just for the thin-walled pvc (like the ones in the kits)?
  2. 157

    Non-kit “full size” sink trap — how?

    I have a 2” stubout hub in the wall and was planning on transitioning down to 1-1/2” then to a 1-1/2” trap adaptor (and then use a full-size 1-1/2” trap: NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Hub x Hub P-Trap). Problem is, that trap adaptor doesn’t fit the standard DWV 1-1/2”. Is there such a thing as “full...
  3. 157

    Any opinions on a Fernco saddle wye for tying PVCinto cast iron vent?

    Argh. Good catch. Not sure how I missed that. Looks like I’m cutting some cast iron. :)
  4. 157

    Any opinions on a Fernco saddle wye for tying PVCinto cast iron vent?

    I’m running a new vent out of a second-floor bathroom remodel and just did some exploratory destruction in a finished attic. The original plan was to punch a new hole through the roof for the new PVC venting, but I found that the main cast iron vent stack goes through the roof directly over the...
  5. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Yeah, it’s pretty cool to see the angles resolve perfectly as you rotate the wye.
  6. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Ha. Yes, good call! You have an amazing attention to detail.
  7. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Got it. It looks like it would be best to have the wye and vent come out of that middle narrow joist, so it will hit the right attic joist bay. So I’m going to stick with your original suggestion and go in at an angle. Off to buy that 2 x 2 x 1.5 wye and get started on boring some holes.
  8. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    right, that part I understand, I had mentioned earlier I wasn’t keen on going in at an angle. What was unclear is the layout/fitting-combos would afford hitting the joist straight on.
  9. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Also, my mock-up was using 2” going out for the vent. However, I’m planning on getting a 2 x 2 x 1.5 wye/60 so that I can run a 1.5” vent and avoid punching big holes in the bottom plate and double top plate. 1.5” still works for the vent, right?
  10. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Hmm. Not sure what you mean about avoiding the angled hole. I would come off the trap with a 90 or I would twist the trap to 90?
  11. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Ok. Here's a mockup with your directions. Minus the elevation, it's about where it all needs to be — the trap is 10" away from the wall and the vent is in the center of the plate. To answer your question regarding the nailers — yes, they can be cut out to allow for some clearance.
  12. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    So here's pictures of a mockup to illustrate what I mean... The trap is pretty much exactly where it needs to be (minus the elevation), so one can see how the angles will be tricky to push the drain over to be under the wall. This mockup would require a nasty angled bore hole through that...
  13. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    ok. I think the problem I’ll have is less about the distance to the wall (wall to center of drain is 10”), but more that the drain is pretty tight up against the joist, so it will limit how much I can turn that way. I may end up having to point the “wrong” direction— just to give myself some...
  14. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Got it. I think the trickiest part of this approach is getting the turn correct off the shower drain, but I think I can visualize the fittings: The trap can point towards that back wall (where the vent is going to run up) and then a long-sweep 90 would point it through the first joist (or, you...
  15. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    ok. This is slowly getting through to me. :D If I was to reinterpret this, it would be that the vent needs to immediately go vertical — i.e. once it has wye-ed off the drain line, it cannot be horizontal until it’s above the flood plain? By chance (can’t take credit it is as-designed), the...
  16. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Still trying to parse this.... but what if there was an inline wye (rolled up 45 like you mentioned) with the vent taking off through the floor joist, over into the next joist bay, then up into the wall, and into the target ceiling joist bay?
  17. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Yeah, I think I will end up running 1 1/2 and adding some sistered joists. Not ideal, but likely the best option. The only other option is to wye off the shower drain further upstream, go through a joist, into the next joist bay and then run up into the ceiling. However, I think that conflicts...
  18. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Awesome. And yes, one thing I do know is that I need to go through the roof at 3” to accommodate for frost, but that will be relatively easy since I can make that size step-up in the attic. Thank you, James.
  19. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    Best I can find so far is legislation related to plumbing licensing: “Workmanship must be of such character as to fully secure the results sought and as required in the New York State Uniform Fire Prevention and Building Code applicable to plumbing.” [EDIT] Just found this under General...
  20. 157

    Stumped (once again) on routing vents and boring joists

    I’m in New York State. Other than comparing line-by-line, is there a way to tell if the IPC applies here?
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