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they should start to warm up within a few min, the time it takes to pump the hot water thru the cold pipe there could be air trapped of a blocked valve somewhere

I let mine descale overnight. But it will turn off and on if someone open and closes a faucet so I put a mini heater buffer tank with recirculation and with an expansion tank. Now there are no cold water sandwiches

That's the dilemma with the combination units. Short cycling won't help longevity or efficiency

there is a tool , basicly a hand pump with a tank. I cant seem to find it

my bedrooms barely reach the setpoint but there is a constant flow of heat so it is very comfortable I have my ramp setting at 40 going up to 70 at slot #6

It looks ok. that webstone will replace the individual ball valve and drain. you can till isolate the zone and purge said zone with it

but something like a 504 switching relay would clean that up

You can try to clean the contacts.

the inlet and outlet should be marked on the boiler and the pumps have arrows on the casting for flow direction. without a picture its hard to say, but you may have to cut a pipe to replace it

It possibly could be related to vent length you can try and extend it and see how it sounds

It is almost always usually a mixture problem you need to have someone adjust the mixture with an analyzer.

You can also get striping, which is warm lines in the floor instead of an even heat.

the staple up can make noise when warming up . the plates have more surface area to transfer heat to the floor

Take the flow limiting oring out of the strainer and try the faucet. you may not be flowing enough to start the heater.

Letting all that air in will probably accelerate rust . A modcon will be stainless and you can install it so the pumps are only iron. Also a modcon like the knight boiler has freeze protection so it will run the pumps and heat the water when it reaches 45 degree s.

Why not add glycol to the system. I believe you ordered a giant boiler so the small reduction in heat transfer properties will not matter

The fan speed adjustment is there for rare occasions that may pop up. The odr curve will be a little trial and error. It is the only way to lower the supply temp without making the max temp too low

There are parameters for the odr temp curve. I dont know exactly what they are but the book should say. You shouldn't have to adjust fan speed

So now your radiators put out enought heat for the thermostat to turn off quickly. As you tweak the odr curve they will put heat out slowly and take longer for he thermostat to satisfy

You want the bottom of the odr curve to be around 100 to start for radiators. The boiler will adjust the temp of the water for the temp outside. For example Outside temp 50. Water temp 100 Outside temp 0. Water temp 155