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Not sure if this should go here or the HVAC forum. Anyways I’m remodeling an office building that was built in the 1970’s or 1980’s. There are two bathrooms. Both have identical fans but one of them is missing the motor and blade. They both have so much over spray that I can’t read the label to...

I always advise against using aluminum conductors. Copper will cost a bit more but won't have the corrosion issues that aluminum does. At the very least you should use noalox.

Or maybe a shady tenant wanting a new tv and video game.

Unfortunately that is part of owning an older home.

I'm not trying to be an ass but I think you're over analysing this. If you're going to go through all the trouble and expense, why not just install a 100 amp panel? Unless the feeder is going to be really long, you're not going to save much by going with a 60 amp or smaller. I personally would...

My 3 year old son put toilet paper in the tank of my toilet. Before I knew what happened it had already been flushed several times. I was able to use a piece of wire to clear out the rim jets but the main jet at the bottom of the bowl seems to be clogged. The toilet flushes but it has to fill...

The NEC calculations are for service size. You are talking about a subpanel.

$53 dude. It's not even worth messing with that old Push-o-Matic panel. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-Homeline-100-Amp-20-Space-20-Circuit-Indoor-Main-Breaker-Load-Center-with-Cover-Value-Pack-HOMVP5/100197589#

Not sure what you're asking. Are you just adding a motion detector to the can light or installing a whole new fixture?

I would route it through the attic if I was doing it.

I'm allergic to dryer sheets. Haven't used them in years. I don't even notice the static electricity anymore.

Unless you need 200 amps in the shop, I'd do a 100 amp subpanel fed from your house.