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K thanks guys. I bought a new piece and it seems to be holding for now. I think I'll do some pipe dope as extra insurance, but if I continue to have problems I'll just install a slip joint. So much easier to do that...

Feel like I've tried everything. I even left disposer disconnected and only filled trap and it still had a leak after about 10 minutes from the threaded connection. Am I missing something, or could this part be bad? If I buy another, will I need to cut off and re-solvent connect? Would it be...

Hah...yeah I know. I only had coffee on hand. I'll adjust the fill valve a bit. Thanks.

Hmm...I can't rule out the possibility it was always like that and I just didn't notice until I worked on the toilet..

Yes, that does not appear to be an issue. It continues to siphon while the bowl is filling and for a short time after it finishes filling.

This fun little annoyance started a few weeks back after working on some of my plumbing. I moved a toilet in an adjacent bathroom, to include rerouting some DWV piping. The two toilets share a vent stack. The water from the bowl is siphoning out. Not completely, but it is obvious that it recedes...

It sure is odd. I'll try the test plug idea when I get home. I am optimistic that is it.

Someone from another forum recommended I remove the test plug from the shower valve in the other bathroom. Does that sound like a possible cause?

OK, so I recently replumbed the house and bought a new HPWH. Everything with the HPWH seems to be working fine. My replumb was with Propex and I did a remote multi-port tee system to reduce the number of fittings. It is a 1400sq ft 3 bd, 2 bath house. I've attached a picture of the tee's and...

Good suggestion, I tried and it didn't make much of a difference. I ended up just buying two street 90's and a male fitting that will couple the 90's with my propex lines. Much better joint!

I do still have the pieces I cut off and when inserted they don't have nearly as much play. The shower head pipe has little to none. I think I probably blew it on those and will need to cut new pipe. I may be able to reuse them for a fixture if there is enough tip to still go through some...

Should be fixed, sorry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWQTHaHuods&feature=youtube_gdata_player Here's a video showing what I mean.

I do have one concern. The ells have a decent amount of play in the valve, while the vertical shower head portion does not. Do I need to be concerned about that? I know soldering will fill the gaps and tighten the joint, but would you consider that a weakened joint? I think I cut the ells too...

Oh boy, wish I could accept that compliment! I actually haven't soldered anything yet...wanted to make sure it was a sound idea first. Thanks for the feedback.

It'd probably help if I attached the picture.

Had extra propex copper stubs. Does this seem like a reasonable use of them? Anyone see a problem with this? My other thought was to solder a propex Fitting to a 90 deg street, or something to that effect. Picture is below.

I think propex discontinued their 3/4" copper stub ells

Partly because I bought all the propex fittings online (for WH and laundry box for WM, as well as shut off valve). I can return them for a restocking fee if I have to. Also, I can't physically get a 90 deg fitting into the sole plate hole. I suppose I could try to auger it out more to get more...

Hi there, Working on replumbing the house and I've struggled to find a good game plan for running the last few lines to the water heater. The rigid plumbing goes through garage sole plate and takes a 90 degree up. Then, when it stubs out it takes another 90 degree. I have tees to run...