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i hired licensed electrical company to do this job in April. they did no load calculations; they derated no wires (he acted like he didn't even know what it was). i asked the electrician for 125A in each unit, minimum. what i got was 2-2-2-4 feeders that carry 90A, and even while they were...

first, i'm trying to verify what needs to be done. what i mean is there's no room to splice the #4 at meter end. these SER's are on the load side -- i thought raceways rules were for supply side but maybe not?

so i'm going to get this fixed ASAP... i've been advised to get a splice box to splice the #4 GND on the SER but that solution bothers me a bit. there is no GND left at the meter end. we could splice it in the middle of the SER (at least the 35' 2/0; the 1/0 would be more difficult as most of it...

yes i've already taken steps to have this fixed... i've been advised the #4 ground that was cut in the SER can be spliced but i question that. isn't a better fix buying a sheathed #4 and running it separately to the meter main?

Hi everybody... I replaced two 2-2-2-4 SER with 2/0-2/0-2/0-4 & 1/0-1/0-1/0-4 to get 125A in each unit for a two-family. The upstairs SER was de-rated for attic heat & length. I have a 2 gang Siemens WP2211RJ gang meter and a 200A panel (P4040B1200CU) back fed with a 125A breaker and a 125A lug...

hi reach... yes i agree about the length of the flange. that's one reason i ordered the PVC flange instead of this cast iron one: the length. but good advice about greasing the rubber gasket on the new flange, thanks. P.S. what kind of grease should i use??

thanks... i'll try the sharkbite thing. i found the PEX bend when cleaning up the area. i think it might go to the cut-off riser. i can't wait to get this toilet done!! i need to get this place finished and rented.

ok cacher chick. but yuck! not looking forward to that task. thanks!

i'm sure the professional plumbers will hate this, but i've used flex pipes with much success. no cutting and moving things... Go to google and type in flex p trap. installs easy as pie.

the crazy plumber cut the pex riser to the toilet. will one of those shark bite things fix this? you can see just a little bit of the riser in the pic. i'm hoping i have enough PEX that the repair is either under or above the subfloor. i don't want the repair job to be at the subfloor where...

hi... yes i'm going to cut a 4" hole in some OSB, secure it to the 2x6's, put in my floating vinyl floor, then put in this new flange. i'll secure it to the pipe with the 3 inside screws and then secure it to the floor with 4 bolts. the bolts come with the new flange even though they're not in...

so, i removed the old flange. it was soooooo easy. took me about 5 minutes. here is what's left. the pipe looks jagged but it was like that. i'm going to get a replacement flange after i put in the floor. specifically, the white one in the pics. thank you everybody. your support and info...

hi everybody, i already paid a plumber who absconded after he was paid, so i need to do this work myself!! (dumb i know, but i really thought he'd return... now i'm glad he didn't come back -- his work was no good.), anyway, i have a sterling faucet, at least a sterling stem came out of it...

ok thanks everybody. i think i'm going to try to remove the lead and oakum with a drill. my understanding, based on all the feedback here, is the flange will come off and i'll be left with a 4" cast iron pipe about the same height of what's already there. once i get the old flange off, i can...

i don't know the answer to where it should be cut. cacher_chick said the entire unit that's attached to the bend is the flange. if so, the lead soldering might be at the base of the flange at the bend?? i think the old flange (the 6" long flange thingy) is made of cast iron. so if i cut off...

ok, so the entire thing has to come off. any idea how i go about getting it off? will it just pull off with a slide hammer? thanks!

hi... i removed the subfloor around the flange (improper floor install) and now i want to remove the old flange. i'm confused as to what i have exactly. it looks like something is attached to the cast iron pipe. is that some sort of riser? do i remove just the flange or the entire piece...

hi again... so i removed the subfloor and now i want to remove the old flange. i'm confused as to what i have exactly. it looks like something is attached to the cast iron pipe. do i remove just the flange or the entire piece that's attached to the "bend" cast iron pipe? here are 3...

what's a "purge"?

oh, they visit the site. they just don't enforce the code. it's a rubber stamp and i was told "when the contractor signs the paperwork, he declares he's followed code." maybe that's the permit application or something they sign at the inspection. i didn't get that far in the details. but...