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Yeah, I just talked to my sisters plumber. He put screws in all the caps to let the air out as he filled it with water. He used drywall screws, believe it or not, and no, they didn't leak. You don't do that? If there is air in there, and the water doesn't drop, the desired effect is still there...

He had screws in all of them as the water was still in the system. They were screwed all the way down, and no water was leaking from them. I'm capping off where I tied into an existing 4" CI trunkline, and testing my under slab work. I'm doing an addition, and moved a toilet, and added a shower...

Good to know I don't have to try to seal up in that CI, thanks. Do you think I can work a donkey **** (Yeah, I know plumber specific slang) in to the tee wye in the following image?: Image is a poor angle, but linear distance from tee down into outlet of wye is about 4 feet. If not, I'll dig...

So where I tied in is 5' away from a clean out/test fitting that's part of the installation. Is it possible to get a test ball to the mission fitting? Will a test ball seal against the sides of the existing 50 year old CI pipe? I'm assuming if I can't get a test ball to that location, the best...

As I mentioned, changing the orientation of the tub isn't an option. It's a large freestanding slipper style soaking tub that currently doesn't have any other drain options. Center drain would have been perfect, but the manufacturer currently doesn't offer it in the model I purchased...

I'm trying to avoid chiseling into an existing foundation and notching plates in a load bearing wall. Plumbing from tub will be running right under a new partition wall, which would be perfect except for the fact it's over 5 feet from where the trap will be. Tub has been purchased, and changing...