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Bump - update. The tub is used mostly as a shower, rarely filled. Will 3/8 provide sufficient flow/pressure???

I'd like to use stainless flex lines to supply a clawfoot tub. Can I use the 3/8 lines like for a sink, or do I need the 1/2 lines like for a hot water heater? Advantage of the 3/8 lines is ease of installing stops.

I'm cleaning up the tenants' bathroom after their departure. They seem to splash a lot of water on the walls around the clawfoot tub, even with the curtain deployed. So there are some peeling paint problems. I'm thinking of covering the walls with pieces of that material used for...

We are in coastal Maine -- positively balmy by comparison! I routinely put antifreeze in the traps, although I've never done it to the clothes washer. Not sure how I would do that as the only water intake is via the hoses. It's a front-loader. I have a compressor, but I'm stumped on how to...

Any advice on how to facilitate draining the supply system (copper) in a seasonal house to avoid winter freeze? Every fall I drain the system (pump off, taps open). In about thirty years I've had a couple of burst pipe incidents, which is not a lot, but every season I cross my fingers as I...

"Common DIY problem" -- that stings! But you are right, of course. I was too timid with the wrench. I cut out adjacent copper, reinstalled new adapters and really torqued them down. Now no leaks. It was easier to apply force the second time around as the valve was held firmly by the...

I did everything everyone said -- no leaks. Thanks.

Do you mean a union between the female adapter (screwed to the valve) and the supply line, or to attach the female half of the union directly to the valve in place of an adapter? I've got a leak between the female adapter and the valve -- looking for a solution. I must have been afraid of...

I guess my question was almost too dumb to be answered, but thanks! Won't the water spray out? I guess I will find out!

I'm installing a shower (fibreglas enclosure) and I'm about to start on the rough plumbing. Copper, sweated fittings. Is there any way to test the plumbing for leaks before I install shower walls and the shower cartridge, etc.?

The Kohler/Sterling website keeps talking about "backer boards" for attaching grab bars to their Vikrell surrounds. It's a bit vague, but I once found a page on their site which "sort of" explained it. Now I can't find the page and the company doesn't seem to to understand my query. My memory...

Yes, I accept full responsibility for that blunder - not using tape. But I think the best remedy is to cut the mess out and start over. As I see it, another problem with leaving a space to be filled with caulk is that the cut edge of the DW shows above the caulk bead if it is concave. It's a...

Finally got the shower in after a two month horrific remodel. Final step was to caulk between the DW overlapping the nailing flange and the top of the enclosure wall. I left a 1/4 inch gap for caulking as specified in install directions. Used silicone caulk as specified. A horrible mess. I...

(Talking to myself on this thread!): I think I've figured this out. The directions Moen supplies are for a replacement of an existing valve. I'm doing new work. I should have placed the valve body in the preferred position, plaster ground tight against outer surface of surround material...

The shower is in with the framing as good as I could get it. I did have to shim here and there. Ideally I would have used perfectly straight 2X4's, but even with picking at the lumber yard this was an elusive goal. Thanks for your help.

I just did this with a Moen valve and, like you, was looking for flanges. However the directions show the valve supported by the supply lines, copper in my case. That has worked fine. My trouble was visualizing the spacing fore-and-aft in the stud cavity. The directions were nearly useless...

Thanks to all who responded. I did what you said - proper Fernco shielded fitting, gently tightened riser clamp and now everything seems nice and rigid.

I know these are lame questions, but the problem is that I don't really understand how these enclosures for tubs and showers work to keep water in. Something sits on top of something else. The join is shaped like flashing, at least that is how I visualize the cross-section. So any water that...

Sorry. It's a Kohler/Sterling "Advantage" shower enclusure. Vikrell. Three walls and a pan/receptor. 32X36. Everything snaps together and it looks as if the joints are arranged to drain. But they aren't not tight like solvent-glued PVC.

Sterling says there should be no more than a 1/32 inch gap between the walls and the receptor. But whatever gap there is seems to be determined by the contact between the receptor flange and the pin thingy on the back wall. They butt, are coplaner. The woman on the help line suggested that...